Finally time to do some reloading for my Savage Model 110 Long Range Hunter in 300 WSM.

[WVgoodguy22]

Well it is way past time for me to do some reloading tests for my new Savage Model 110 Long Range Hunter in .300 WSM. I finally got to the point where I have enough brass, bullets, powders, and other components to test in my .300 WSM. Even though I sadly used expensive rounds in the Hornady Outfitter GMX ($47) and Federal Premium Berger Hybrid Hunters ($42) in 180 grain and 185 grain respectively, since that is what was available at Cabela's when I picked up my gun. Wish I could have ordered some Hornady American Whitetail ($26) to break in the barrel and not waste expensive rounds on an old Bushnell scope that my brother after 25 rounds took off and put his Redfield on.
Anyway I ended up picking up some Nosler Accubonds in 165 grain that was conveniently behind me while I worked at a Walmart's sporting good department. I got the H380 since it was the top test powder on Nosler's Load Data page, and have some IMR 4350 that we use for our .270s, and my Dad's .243 and .300 Win with good results to test vs the .H380. I also wanted to try a completely different bullet to go along with the ABs and upon advice from some veteran HTers like VikingsGuy I went against my 165-180 grain thought and went with some Barnes 150 TTSXs and am pairing it with some IMR 4064 (which is the top tested powder on Barnes' site) that I also got the last one at the Walmart that I use to work at until recently. Most of the brass is once fired Federal (got 37 for a good deal from a fellow HTer) and some from myself, 15 Hornady brass as well. Should be interesting and fun to see how it works out. I may or may not try some 180s later depending on results.
This is planned to be set up for Western Big game hunting from deer both mule deer and whitetail (which we have at home in West Virginia), to elk and if I am lucky to draw a moose tag, along with others like black bear (which also can be had close to home).
Wish me luck and any advice is welcomed. Thank you.

~Forrest A.

 

[VikingsGuy]

upon advice from . . . VikingsGuy

A rationale rarely uttered and even less often followed - buyer beware

 

[std7mag]

Many things come to mind right off the bat.

First off, Federal casings tend to the soft side. Check case length after every firing. 2nd firing max.

While i know Nosler is one of the sight sponsors, and i do like and use their components, use the reloading book for kindling. They tend towards engineered fiction, to be my most polite.

300 WSM for instance. 26" barrel (you probably have 24", so take 27fps per inch off) 1:10 twist rate (normal) 4 groove (take more speed off for yours).
And charge weights are higher than Hodgdon by at least a full grain.

From experience the Barnes bullets like a 0.050" jump to the lands. A crimp tends to help accuracy. Lets pressure build up a little to give the bullet a good running start before getting to the lands.

 

[nidahunter]

I will be following this one, i am just starting to think about loads for my 300 wsm as well. Keep us posted!

 

[WVgoodguy22]

Many things come to mind right off the bat.

First off, Federal casings tend to the soft side. Check case length after every firing. 2nd firing max.

While i know Nosler is one of the sight sponsors, and i do like and use their components, use the reloading book for kindling. They tend towards engineered fiction, to be my most polite.

300 WSM for instance. 26" barrel (you probably have 24", so take 27fps per inch off) 1:10 twist rate (normal) 4 groove (take more speed off for yours).
And charge weights are higher than Hodgdon by at least a full grain.

From experience the Barnes bullets like a 0.050" jump to the lands. A crimp tends to help accuracy. Lets pressure build up a little to give the bullet a good running start before getting to the lands.

Thank you for the heads up Std7mag on both the Federal brass, the book and crimping the Barnes. I have only crimped with the .223 AR Tapered Crimp dies, I will have to look up how to with FL dies. The site says it is a 26 inch, but measuring it from the action to the end of the muzzle brake it is 25.5 and 23.5 to the begging of the adjustable brake. I haven't checked the Hodgdon site to compare what it says for H380 or others for the .300 WSM. I probably will do the ABs first with both powders then get to the Barnes which seems to be more finicky on seating depth, etc...

 

[WVgoodguy22]

I will be following this one, i am just starting to think about loads for my 300 wsm as well. Keep us posted!

I will try my best to keep everyone and anyone posted. Sadly my brother has the chrono down in VA with him so I won't be able to see speeds and standard deviations. Just which one groups best. I need to see if he can send it up, or when he moves back up here in early April have him drop it off.

 

[WVgoodguy22]

A rationale rarely uttered and even less often followed - buyer beware

Good one sir, you are one of the ones that have consistently answered any questions I may have and post on here along with a few others. But if the Barnes don't work it just might be HAMMER Time. Haha I am sure or at least hopeful that they will work well for me.

 

[VikingsGuy]

150grain TTSX, H4895, CCI #250 magnum large rifle primers, Nosler 300WSM Brass, 3,155fps, Tikka T3X in B&C stock = 0.58 MOA with 5 shot group. Didn’t need to try a second powder type or mess with seating depth (Tikka mags don’t allow for much of that anyway). A heck of a shooter for a hunting rifle. Hope you have the same experience.

 

[std7mag]

If the Barnes don't work, try some Cutting Edge bullets.

4-8 petals break off making massive wound cavity, while sharp edged base keeps plowing through. Nasty!

They make self defense handgun bullets the same way.

Check with Lee Precision on a crimp die. They work well, and don't break the bank.

For less than all your components, you could buy your own chrono. I got a Beta Master for $115. Sears tripod for $30. And some good 9 volt batteries and your set. I found Dollar General alkaline to be the longest lasting.

When the Nosler manual says that H4350 gives faster velocities than RL26, in a 7mm Rem Mag, it raises suspicions to say the least.

 

[VikingsGuy]

Check with Lee Precision on a crimp die.

No need to crimp bolt action bottleneck rifle ammo in my experience. YMMV.

 

[std7mag]

Not so much a need.
But i've seen it really help with accuracy on monolithic bullets.
Barnes, Cutting Edge, GMX, E-Tip.

Nothing else changed.

 

[VikingsGuy]

Not so much a need.
But i've seen it really help with accuracy on monolithic bullets.
Barnes, Cutting Edge, GMX, E-Tip.

Nothing else changed.

Were you using Lee FL dies? I ask, as I have found several Lee die sets that do not sufficiently tighten neck for Barnes bullets - leading to real problems that crimping may have “solved”. I have since switched to Redding for those calibers I was having trouble with and has worked like a charm.

 

[std7mag]

I've used the Lee Factory Crimp Die with good success.
I've seen, and used others with equal success.
The Lee FCD was just less expensive.

 

[VikingsGuy]

I've used the Lee Factory Crimp Die with good success.
I've seen, and used others with equal success.
The Lee FCD was just less expensive.

I guess what I was trying to say is that maybe using Lee sizing dies were making use of crimping die more helpful than typical given the propensity of some Lee sizing dies to leave thr neck just a little bit too loose. Thereby suggesting the crimping wouldn't be needed or improve anything when one used a Redding or similar sizing die in the first place. Just a hypothesis. When they work I have liked my Lee die sets. But I have had three cartridge sets that didn’t and I had to upgrade.

 

[WVgoodguy22]

Thanks everyone with the advice and discussion. I have reloaded 20 rounds so far. 5 each of IMR 4350 starting at 62, the one grain increments, 63, 64, and 65. The Nosler book said MAX of 66, but I didn't go that far. I decided to switch powders out of my manual RCBS powder dispenser from the IMR 4350 to the H380 which is a ball powder. I ran the arm multiple times, around a dozen or so, but I still got some IMR granules in my powder, not a bunch with each throw, but I tried to pick them out because I am worried. Should I throw all that powder away or take it slow and pick out the granules and when I put it on the scale and not worry about it? Ugh I hate messing up like that.

 

[WVgoodguy22]

Oh and when I was reloading the Nosler Accubonds, I easily got it to the COAL the first try, but when I run the arm with the loaded brass, and I lower the arm you can see a little bit of copper shavings. Is that an issue or not? Its been a while since I reloaded with my .270 and the .223 and I don't remember it doing that, but my memory could deceive me.

 

[WVgoodguy22]

150grain TTSX, H4895, CCI #250 magnum large rifle primers, Nosler 300WSM Brass, 3,155fps, Tikka T3X in B&C stock = 0.58 MOA with 5 shot group. Didn’t need to try a second powder type or mess with seating depth (Tikka mags don’t allow for much of that anyway). A heck of a shooter for a hunting rifle. Hope you have the same experience.

Thank you very much. I will try the H4895 if the IMR 4064 that I got (last bottle at the Walmart I worked at). I should have picked up the CCI primers there too, my brother got a 1000 primer pack of the Federal 215 LRM primers since he was trying to get his 7mm Mag to shoot consistent and my Dad used them in his .300 Win Mag. Down the road I may try Nosler unfired brass, especially if I can get a deal on it. How does the Tikka recoil? That was the one I was looking at forever, but wasn't sure about magnum recoil in a 6-6.5 lb rifle, not that I am recoil shy or sensitive. Wow that is a nice group indeed. Hopefully I can get there.
I just did 35 rounds of the Nosler 165 grain ABs tonight 20 for IMR 4350 and 15 for the H380, I almost forgot that I only had 50 bullets in the ABs, so I didn't make a 4th group of 5 for the H380. I might have made a mistake and set them all at 2.860 OACL (which is the MAX SAAMII length) instead of the 2.830 OACL as tested in the Nosler book, I didn't see that column just the 2.860 in the diagram. Hopefully I will be fine.
I plan on loading the Barnes tomorrow or very soon and will let you all know how it works out for me.
Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

[std7mag]

You know how to find the COAL to your lands, right?
Yes, serious question.
No, not with a comparator.

 

[WVgoodguy22]

You know how to find the COAL to your lands, right?
Yes, serious question.
No, not with a comparator.

Not entirely. This is what my brother told me yesterday: You can take a fired case and a bullet, color it with a marker and put it in the case then load it in your rifle. Then unload it. There will be a distinct line on the bullet. That will show you the maximum length you can seat your bullets. That is the bullet touching the lands of your barrel. Then you can back it off from there.

 

[VikingsGuy]

You know how to find the COAL to your lands, right?
Yes, serious question.
No, not with a comparator.

Understanding these terms and being able to calculate them for a given rifle and a given bullet is a useful handloading skill, but in many factory rifles with drop box magazines and with many of the longer high BC bullets, you can't get close enough to 0.010" or 0.050" from lands for that to matter. Often a good place to start is OAL 0.015" less than max magazine length.