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Back country cape care

I would suggest NOT putting your cape in a plastic bag! Plastic will hold in the heat and provide a warm environment for bacteria. Also, if you have blood on the cape it will likely spread all over the cape. A guy I know used a plastic bag on a mtn goat once and he ended up with a red cape!

A couple other recommendations: In super warm temps use a plastic bag to dip cape into a cold creek to cool cape and meat down (separate bags). Also bring paper towels to stuff in mouth, nose, and bullet holes to keep blood from spreading (especially true with mtn goats). You can also use the paper towels to get rid of some of the blood. Use cloth bags or game bags to prevent flies and dirt from getting on cape. Most taxidermists I know would recommend NOT to turn ears, slit lips, etc. Hunters that don't have experience doing this will likely do something wrong and the taxidermist will likely spend more time making repairs than the good it will do! I have never salted a cape in the field in my life and I usually sell life sized and head capes to taxidermists every year. Bring plenty of coolers! Put your cape in one and meat in the other to keep blood from spreading. Obviously get ice in cooler ASAP and wrap cooler with sleeping bags, blankets, coats, etc. I would advise opening the drain of your cooler so it can drain as the ice melts. Spread out our cape on top of the ice with a couple garbage bags between the ice and cape. Remember not to place the cape inside garbage bags inside the cooler! Get your cape frozen ASAP! Possibly see if anyone where you are staying can freeze the cape if you have a long ride/flight home. Fold with skin against skin and roll up. Freeze with head (nose, ears, eyes, mouth) rolled inside the neck.
 
I agree with everything you said, to a point. The main topic was caring for a cape when it will take a few days to get it in a cooler. Your right that most taxidermists would rather turn the ears and lips and nose, and eyes themselves because you can make mistakes pretty easy. Those mistakes are not very hard to fix, in most cases. Ill be very honest with ya. Id much rather fix a few holes that the hunter accidently cuts, than to have the hair on the ears slip. If someone is hunting in a location, I would prefer them let me do all that. On my first elk hunt, we packed in a day and a half from the trail head. It was the first week of september and it got pretty hot. Thats a situation where I would rather the hunter split and turn the cape and salt it. As for putting a cape in a plastic bag and cooling it off in a creek, great idea. Im all for it. One thing to consider is water temp. I know its cooler than anywhere else. Bactreia can grow at 40 degrees. It gets worse as the temp gets higher. If its in the high 80's or low 90's, the water will help a lot, but it wont prevent it completely. One possible solution is to put it in a bag and into the creek during the day, then salt it at night. I would be concerned about the ears for sure, and everything else too. Ive delt with epidermal slip more times than I ever care to in my taxi shop. I would love it if I never see it again. It really sucks trying to fix ears with no hair on them, or noses with slippage where the skin and hair come together. The eyes ane not to bad to fix as long as its just the skin slipping and not the hair. The lips are another issue all together. If the skin slips there, you can try to tuck enough of it into the lip slot on the form to hide it. If all the slip spot will not tuck into the slot, you can always paint over it, but it will be noticeable! No way around it. If theres a small cut on the lip line, from a hunter accidently cutting it while truning the lips, it can be sewn up. If the taxidermist is any good at all, you will never even see where it was cut. Every taxidermist has cut lips and noses when turning them, and we have all torn holes in ears too. Its fixable. Yea, it might take a little longer, but its fixable. On the other hand, if there is to much slippage, it is not fixable. Now the hunter has a choice. They can either buy another cape, and that can get pretty expencive, or just not get the animal mounted. Lets look at this from a business point of view. Would you rather fix a few holes, or take a chance on a client not getting an animal mounted? Id fix the holes.

As for getting blood on the hair, if its caped out, anf fleshed, there should be no blood to get on the hair. If it still has the skull in it, yes there will be blood. When the subject of caping the animal came up, it was about trying to reduce weight by removing the skull, for the pack out. Caping it out will remove a LOT of weight, and reduce the chance of blood getting on the hair. The third benifit of removing the skull is the fact that it will allow the cape to cool off a lot faster!

This pretty much only applies to early season hunts that happen a long way from a trail head, when there is no way to get to a cooler or ice. I love bowhunting before the gun season opens. I also like to get as far away from other hunters as I can. Thats why I asked about back country cape care in the very beginning. I know all about salting capes. I just didnt know if most people packed salt in during early seasons, or if there was another way that I had not heard of, considering where I live (until march 1, then Im a montana resident).

My advice to hunters on this during the early season is if you can get your animal cooled off pretty soon, do that. No reasons to worry alot. BUT, if you hunt like I do, way the heck into a wilderness area, cape it out and if you feel ok about splitting and turning it, go for it. Then get it salted. Common sence should tell you what to do.
 
Question... is it that hard/expensive to buy a cape if you don't want to pack yours out?
 
Rob,

I think it depends on the animal. I am looking to getting a mule deer plaque turned into a shoulder mount and when I spoke with my taxi, he said to send him some pics from the field and he would try and find a cape that would match his coloration. That being said I think it might be tougher and more expensive for other animals. He think he will be able to find me a good one for $60-100, but I am sure an elk would be much more. I looked on eBay and you can get a tanned elk hide ready for taxidermy from about $180-380.
 
Heres a link to the biggest taxidermy web site "for sale" section on the internet. You can look at the prices of capes on there. You can find anything from skunks to elephants for sale on there. http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/board,5.0.html

I bought several capes on ebay a fow years ago. I had LOTS of problems with them. They were not the size they were supposed to be. They had scars on the face. One slipped so bad it was unusable. I got these all from the same guy, at the same time. I know there are some great capes on there, but this one time burnt me.
 

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