Hunt Talk Radio - Look for it on your favorite Podcast platform

Arrows

Whatever your estimated dl is, start short for form sake. Also start with a lighter draw weight. Form is everything, it is easy to increase these but difficult to break bad shooting habits. Once you have a good working dl, you will need to reset your nock pt. and rest. From there you are well on your way to a fine shooting rig. To the original matter, again you are likely screwed regarding your arrows. The GT Hunters are a great choice, I would recommend the 7595 shaft with a 2" vane. Don't bother with the camo, just adds cost and a decrease in tolerance.
 
I would think about checking with a different shop. I'm far from an archery expert but I shoot 28.5 arrows with a 29.5 draw.

Sir, I am no expert, but I only hunt with a bow. My draw length is 28 inches and my arrows are 28 inches. To the OP you may be misquoting the shop, but those numbers are impossible. When you draw the arrow it won't be on the rest
 
When I measure my wing span I get 73" divide by 2.5 is 29.2" then I go to the user guide it say to set it on E for 29" draw but my shop has it set at W that is 19 1/2". And my arrows measure 26 3/4" they come 1/2-1" in front of my biscuit
I wish there was another PSE shop around me
 
Last edited:
There is no way your draw length is set at 19 1/2, your arrows are 26" and the broadhead comes within an inch of your biscuit. Take your bow to another shop, doesn't need to be a PSE shop, and have them check and explain your setup to you. I would record it on your phone so you can refer back to it, often.
 
I went to a different shop today and they looked at my bow and watched me shout it in there indoor range and said that it is set up right.
 
Well, two shops say it's right. Perhaps it is. If your measured dl is 29 and you are set at 19.5, that doesn't make sense. Are draw stops in right position, letters need to match. Perhaps it's cams are being way over rotated. Does it spec out right, measure your axle to axle and brace height. They won't be exact but should be close.
 
Sir to check your draw length. Stand straight against a wall. Take a yard stick in your hands. Put it in your neck and hold both hands straight out. Your fingers should be straight. So The yard stick is in between your hands and fingers straight out level. At the tip of your longest finger is your true draw length.

Arrows should be the same, but call this guy. He builds my arrows Steve's Archery Arrows 815-830-2191.

Sir, if you can take a picture of you standing nice and straight with your shoes on drawing your bow. Tape a line level to the arrow. While you are drawing watch the level. When you have it level tell someone to take a picture. This will help us to see how you look
 
Last edited:
Your specs are fine, I assume maxed out you are around the limbs max weight. As for cam position, on the left side you will see a white line on each cam. If you where you continue each of those lines toward each other would they meet, they should and be parallel to your string. When you come to full draw, do both cams hit the string at the exact same time or does one hit sooner then the other. Perhaps only by 1/4-1/2 sooner. Can only see so much via pics but you don't look bad off. I would check your measured dl. My method is to stand with your back and heels against a wall. Palms outs, put your finger tips up against a corner or piece of trim and get your wingspan. Divided by 2.5. Perhaps you just have T Rex arms because you don't look to far off. You could use a slight bend in your arm and adjust your grip but not bad.
 
Yea the white lines on the cams match. Since that pic I have a bend in my arm now. And yea both strings hit the cam around the same time. Now should I have a tight grip or lose grip on the bow?
 
Pse has been using smaller grips with really help with torque but are sensitive to change. Without changing or twisting anything, naturally bring your arm up to shooting position. You will have a slightly bend at the elbow and your knuckles will be at a 45. Your hand is not naturally straight up and down. You want the natural position for your grip, your not holding the bow but more or less just cradling it. Look at your palm and move your thumb. You will see one muscle moving while the rest of the hand does not. Now pretend to cut all of the none moving part off, you have the distinct line there to visualize this. You are left with one solid piece of meat to use for a grip. That is the only portion of your hand you want to contact the grip and in so doing your hand will be sta 45. I like to nock an arrow and clip my release on, you can now dangle your bow by the release. Position your grip properly and then come to full draw. At full draw look at your grip. At the bottom, you hand muscles make a little butt with crack, you should only be on the one check. If you are palmed in, adjust your grip. Adjusting at full draw will create torque and decrease accuracy so let down and adjust. Eventually the new grip will become natural and you will see a marked increase in accuracy and consistency, especially at distance. Use a loose fingered grip so not to add torque yet again. Loosen up that wrist sling, that bows not going anywhere. Search the net to get visuals on all this, you will also get a pile of opinions on this. I go this route as it is how the US Olympic trainer states to grip a bow and it works
 
just a heads up tc, ur draw length is not set on "w". thats just where the allen bolt is. there is a little "barb" that actually sits in the holes above those letters. i think i can see urs in the hole marked "f". thats where ur draw length is actually measured. hope that makes sense
 
O ok I see it now it is on F 28.5". My arrows are 26 3/8". That's from the bottom of the V on my nock to the end of my Insert
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
111,411
Messages
1,957,846
Members
35,167
Latest member
sbaker
Back
Top