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.300 WBY Reloading troubleshooting

DrakeKillerSX3

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Joined
Jun 26, 2018
Messages
13
Location
Fargo, ND
I have been reloading .300 WBY rounds for a few years now and have had good luck with everything until lately the rounds just don't seem to want to chamber very well. I can get the bolt closed but locking the bolt down and getting it open has become difficult with some of the rounds more then other. I made adjustments to the resizing die and that did not seem to help. Has anyone else come across this and had any luck fixing it? My guess is it may not just be a this with the .300 wby.
 
More info needed! New brass? Once fired? Brass that has been loaded multiple times? Same load over the last 2 years or trying different loads? Last time that you trimmed the brass? Full length resizing the brass or necking only? Checked for case head bulging after resize?
 
Make sure you don't have carbon buildup in your chamber.
 
I'll just pipe in with the probably obvious. Have you measured the cases at the various points to see if they are out of spec?
 
Glad to see someone else from Fargo! Are you single feeding the rounds? I know that my Savage takes a bit more muscle to get around the rim of the case if I single feed it and slide the round into the chamber fully than it does when I'm feeding from the magazine.
 
Alright got some more information i need to share i guess.

Brass has been multiple fired i am not sure on number of time i would say probably around 3-4 times.

Have been using the same load for past few years.

I reload with my dad and i do not believe he has been doing any case trimming and i know i haven't so i am going to check that. Also will measure the cases other dimensions for spec.

Thanks for the input so far guys!
 
Have you measured the cases at the various points to see if they are out of spec?

First thing I would check, especially your case OAL. Compare this and your other measurements to those listed in your reloading book. If they appear to be within spec, then try a headspace gauge. The brass, once sized, should drop right in and be flush or just at the recess. If you have to push it into the gauge, it still might work in your rifle, but you are close to ( if not out of) SAAMI spec.
 
A caliper, and it's use, is an extremely important part of rolling your own ammo. As is a reloading log book to keep track of the number of times the brass has been fired. I am sure that you'll find that the brass needs to be trimmed if they have been fired 3-to-4 times without doing so. Please, please read your reloading info and follow all recommended practices and warnings. Firing a loaded round with a cartridge case that is to long can be very dangerous and this is especially true while shooting a belted magnum case.
 
Case length could be a factor. Also how are you setting up your sizing die? Belted cases won’t be sized all the way to the belt anyway. Unless you buy a special die. You could have case expansion at the base and not sizing that part.
I would recommend trimming to length and then coloring/soot the case at the shoulder and the case body and above belt at the case web. Drop it in and chamber it. Remove the case and check to see where it’s contacting.
 
I would guess that your brass needs to be trimmed. I had that problem when I first started loading. Check that first
 
Trim would be my first suggestion too.
Ran into that when i first got into reloading.
Now i check trim every time. Lee case length gage makes it easy.
I know i only get 5-6 reloads on a case before the primer pocket starts to get loose in my 7mm Rem Mag. Part of the price for shooting a magnum, you got it for the velocity.
 
Leupold BX-4 Rangefinding Binoculars

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