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Toyota 22re engine help.

mevertsen

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I acquired a 1987 4 Runner a while back. I started with the intent to replace the timing cover gaskets, and due to munching the head gasket in the process, I have the engine mostly broken down.

I have all the parts and began the process yesterday of putting it back together.

Starting with a new timing set and metal guides.

Torque spec for the metal guides in the instructions is 9ft lbs. My wrench goes down to 10. As I started to torque the first bolt, it kept going and going and... I stopped and backed it out. The bolt hole is oval shaped, and I was actually pressing the washer into the hole. I have never seen this before, and this is my first shot with a torque wrench actually.

Also, I was tightening the timing tensioner bolts, and actually felt one start to give. Again, I backed out. Luckily I was able to get the bolt put, but it is visibly twisted.

By parts I have found with USA stamps, I am sure this engine has been torn into before, and I am sure some bolts have been re used. I know a lot of bolts are designed for one time torque.

So questions...

Is the pressing in of the washer normal?

And..

What is the bolt spec for the timing chain tensioner?

Thanks.
 

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are you 100% sure you have the right bolt?

10 ft lbs of torque is not much and the correct length bolt shouldn't deform the flange like that.

The silver bolt came in the kit. The other bolt in my hand is the twisted one that I pulled off with the other tensioner a few minutes prior and put the bolts back in the hole. There were no new tensioner bolts in the kit.
 
I tested the wrench on a four wheeler Lug nut. It was a very subtle click and spring at 10 lbs which I powered through yesterday, missing it.

I tried the other tensioner bolt, and it twisted as well, before I got to spec as well, so I am not sure what is going on there. I am hoping I can have a couple new bolts here by the end of th week to get things rolling.
 
I don't know much about those motors but it looks like that part is dickerd (like someone took an impact to it) and needs to be replaced

Nope. Brand new out of the box the other day.

I was just not hearing the click, and powering through the spring return and didn't realize it. The bare metal is the washer being pushed in. I found another washer and got the guides all on. Plus, put some other emissions delete parts on and had no problem with the wrench, knowing that I had to be a lot more gentle.

Now, I am just trying to find the correct timing chain tensioner bolts, as they both twisted, which I have no explanation for.
 
Not sure what wrench you're using but the valley on some are very narrow when you break over and can be easy to miss. I have a harbor freight one that is like that, they also aren't very accurate at the lowest end of their range.
 
Shout out to another 'old' 4Runner owner. I picked up an '86 a couple of years ago, and have steadily been doing some work on it. Got 387,000 miles on it, doesn't smoke or use oil, and still has great compression! I do need to replace the cv axles (?) and repack the bearings on the front, their doing that clicking noise when turning in 4WD.
 
Update..

I got it together got rid of the emissions and air conditioning unit which was not hooked up. Fixed most of the leaks, but I may have stripped the threads in the top of the timing cover, so it doesn't want to torque right there, and there is a slight leak there. I need to work on that.

But now it won't run. Will start on ether, so I know I have spark. I got a compression tester and will check that today.

Seems like the injectors are not getting power.

I have checked power from the ecm to the relay and from the relay there is power.

I have found a few wires which have been cut or stubbed off over the years, bu none which make sense as to why it won't run.

Kind of stumped.
 
Update..

I got it together got rid of the emissions and air conditioning unit which was not hooked up. Fixed most of the leaks, but I may have stripped the threads in the top of the timing cover, so it doesn't want to torque right there, and there is a slight leak there. I need to work on that.

But now it won't run. Will start on ether, so I know I have spark. I got a compression tester and will check that today.

Seems like the injectors are not getting power.

I have checked power from the ecm to the relay and from the relay there is power.

I have found a few wires which have been cut or stubbed off over the years, bu none which make sense as to why it won't run.

Kind of stumped.
Have you talked to the guys over on Tacoma World yet? I bet someone can help...heck there may even be someone down the road from you that can swing by and troubleshoot.
 
I am not on Tacoma world.

I have talked to the guy I got the 4runner from yesterday. He is going to swing by at some point.

I just did the update as I saw another reply to the thread.

I got it together just a couple days ago, so still working on troubleshooting

Have a good one :)
 
Mine now is a Tacoma 98.
Find a Toyota guy. Tacoma World & a few other websites have most of the info there already. Just gotta sort thru it.
Was just thinking of the 4 pages in 2 days on rocslide I just read about used Toyota Tacoma's with a couple hundred thousand miles worth $11k?................LOL
 
Update..

I got it together got rid of the emissions and air conditioning unit which was not hooked up. Fixed most of the leaks, but I may have stripped the threads in the top of the timing cover, so it doesn't want to torque right there, and there is a slight leak there. I need to work on that.

But now it won't run. Will start on ether, so I know I have spark. I got a compression tester and will check that today.

Seems like the injectors are not getting power.

I have checked power from the ecm to the relay and from the relay there is power.

I have found a few wires which have been cut or stubbed off over the years, bu none which make sense as to why it won't run.

Kind of stumped.
sounds like a fuel pump to me. Especially if you can get it started with ether. mine was located in gas tank. could be fuel filter to. I would check that first. easier fix. Mine was underneath driver side door. good luck
 
sounds like a fuel pump to me. Especially if you can get it started with ether. mine was located in gas tank. could be fuel filter to. I would check that first. easier fix. Mine was underneath driver side door. good luck

I confirmed compression, and after talking with a local mechanic, he agrees with it likely being a fuel delivery issue. He is going to help me narrow it down further.

Almost there!
 
If it starts on ether, but won’t run without it, it’s a fuel issue. Could be lots of things, but the most likely three are fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel injectors. It seems like every time I’ve had a vehicle sit for a long time, I lost a fuel pump. Change the fuel filter anyway no matter what. On my 22-RE, I had the injectors cleaned and flow matched and it made a significant difference. You should price new injectors and compare that to having them rebuilt. It would probably be well worth $150 to have new injectors in that truck.

You screwed up the threads at the top of the timing cover when you over-torqued them.(can’t say I haven’t done that once or twice) You’ll need to drill the hole over size and tap it for a new thread, then you can either use an oversized bolt, or you can use a heli-coil kit. Do some research on both approaches. It sounds like it would probably be a first for you. That’s okay, I applaud you for diving in!

If you ever end up with that head off again, get a set of head studs instead of bolts. It is a vastly superior way of clamping a head to a block.
 
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