Should I change arrows?

rideold

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Oct 28, 2015
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Front Range of Colorado
Wanted to throw this out to the crowd to see what folks think. I've been shooting the same arrow for a while now and am on the third bow since coming up with this build. What I have now is:

Gold Tip Hunter XT, 340 spine
Factory insert with a 50 gr weight
VPA 3 blade broadhead - 150 gr
Q2I 3.0 Fusion X Vane (3")
Nockturnal GT Nock

Total built arrow weight is about 543 gr with a length of 29 1/16th (28.5" carbon to carbon cut length).

I am currently shooting a Mathews Triax 60# with a 27" draw (figure that puts me at about 225 fps but I don't have a chrono so this is just a calculation). With this bow I can drop my arrow length to 28 1/2".

Long story short is I passed my 2015 or 2016 Mission Hype DT to my 12 year old son in January of 2020 after buying a Bowtech Revolt X (we had a deal that when he could hold it up without leaning back and shaking like a leaf I'd give it to him). Great bow but I've had a mishap involving an arrow that wasn't nocked correctly and a resulting damaged cam....which is backordered for who knows how long. I bought this Triax used (but looking almost new with less than 100 arrows through it) so I guarantee being able to hunt in a month and it turns out I really like it. I shoot it well and more accurately than I have ever shot any other bow (the new Bowtech included). When I bought the Triax the guy threw in 4 or 5 Gold Tip Pierce Platinum arrows in 400 spine. They are a lighter build than I am used to shooting but I've never had micro diameter arrows before and I have to say I'm kind of hooked. I am surprised at how much more penetration I get on my Block target at 20, 30 and 40 yards even though they are a lighter arrow. The arrows he gave me are about 458 gr with a FOC of about 16% using my 150 gr tips and it looks like the blazer vanes are helical but I'm not sure of the angle...and they look left hand.

Now I'm wondering if I should make the jump to something new and micro diameter or if I should leave well enough alone. Not sure if I should try to get the micro diameter build up to the same weight I have been shooting or not. I'm also wondering if I should change the spine. It seems like the charts put things on the border between 340 and 300.

Thoughts?
 
Micros are great for penetration but Ive disliked every insert/outsert/halfout system I've tried.

At a glance I would think that 400s may be a little weak if you load them up to 200 grains out front like your current set up. With the short poundage and light draw weight I think 340's are about right. Seems like you may be able to cut them a little shorter if they're acting weak, 28.5 CTC with a 27" draw means you should have some carbon to spare.

Also you could look for a middle ground between the hunters and the micros with a .204 ID arrow like a GT kinetic or easton axis.
 
I agree, I shoot 28” draw but I have it set on my bow one inch short, which I like. I have my arrows cut only a half inch longer than my actual draw- 27.5 that said, I also shoot micro diameter and really love them for the speed and penetration.. I am by no means an expert, just telling you my setup.
 
I prefer the .204 arrows over the .166, I've found them easier to tune and the inserts/outserts are stronger.
If I were you I'd keep the same weight as your original arrows just go smaller diameter shaft just because you do gain a fair amount of penetration.
Contrary to popular belief, micros and small diameter arrows have the same if not more GPI than standard shafts.

I'm using:
150gr VPA 3 blade
Victory RIP TKO 300
75gr Victory TL inserts
4 fletch Bohning Heat vanes
510gr total.

70lb Hoyt Nitrux 28.5" DL.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I talked with Brian at Day Six and I'm going to give his setup a try. 350 spine, standard insert/outserts, 4 fletch (he does his 2 degree RH helical which is my preference) 26.5 inch cut which should give me a 27.5-28" arrow all told and a built weight of 520-530 grains. He was very helpful and very prompt in his reply. He suggested arrow wraps but I went without so I can fix a damaged fletching without having to re-fletch the whole arrow. $18.50 per arrow shipped.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I talked with Brian at Day Six and I'm going to give his setup a try. 350 spine, standard insert/outserts, 4 fletch (he does his 2 degree RH helical which is my preference) 26.5 inch cut which should give me a 27.5-28" arrow all told and a built weight of 520-530 grains. He was very helpful and very prompt in his reply. He suggested arrow wraps but I went without so I can fix a damaged fletching without having to re-fletch the whole arrow. $18.50 per arrow shipped.

I bought arrows from Brian two years ago, and am very pleased with their durability, and how they fly. His in/out design is tough as hell. Hope you have the same experience with them.
 
So I've been shooting the Day Six arrows at 3D targets at the club I belong to as much as I can since they came and I assembled them. Have to say they shoot darn good. I was never able to get the consistency I'm getting now with my old Hunter XT arrows. Gluing up the inserts was a bit of a rodeo until I figured out not to put too much epoxy on. I had to clean out a couple after they dried. Not a huge deal but I was a little worried at first when I realized I had glue in the threads. Worked out OK in the end. And the more I shoot this Mathews Triax the more I like it. Maybe I just shoot short bows better or something.
 
I’ve haven’t found a reason to deviate from Gold Tip Hunter XT arrows. Ridiculously accurate, tough as nails, and easy to build. I never bought into the skinny arrows penetrating better myth.

I like my arrows cut to about an inch in front of my rest. I prefer a 3 fletch and I helical mine the way they want to turn coming off the string(mine turn left).

Gold Tip Hunter XT 300 @ 27.5”
50 grain insert and Thunderhead 100 broadheads
3 2” Blazer vanes with regular GT nocks
taw around 440 grain with 12% foc
70# @ 28” 285 fps
This has proven to be a boringly accurate and deadly combo.

Good luck with your setup.
 
I never bought into the skinny arrows penetrating better myth.
I never did either until I shot my Hunter XT arrows along side a micro diameter into the same target from the same bow. Maybe that's not a real useful comparison. Who knows if it really matters in the end. We'll see after a year of shooting the Day Six arrows if I end up back where I started. I can always cut my existing stock of Hunter XT's down a bit so I don't have so much sticking out the front! That said, I do like how the Day Six arrows shoot. Maybe it's the bow, maybe it's the arrows but it's probably just my mind but I'm more accurate with the new setup that I was before.
 
I never did either until I shot my Hunter XT arrows along side a micro diameter into the same target from the same bow. Maybe that's not a real useful comparison. Who knows if it really matters in the end. We'll see after a year of shooting the Day Six arrows if I end up back where I started. I can always cut my existing stock of Hunter XT's down a bit so I don't have so much sticking out the front! That said, I do like how the Day Six arrows shoot. Maybe it's the bow, maybe it's the arrows but it's probably just my mind but I'm more accurate with the new setup that I was before.

I only care about what it does on animals, not targets. My broadheads are bigger than my arrow shafts. My arrows aren’t creating the “drag” in animals that the marketing gurus will have you to believe.

You definitely have to shoot what you feel confident with.
 
I agree, I shoot 28” draw but I have it set on my bow one inch short, which I like. I have my arrows cut only a half inch longer than my actual draw- 27.5 that said, I also shoot micro diameter and really love them for the speed and penetration.. I am by no means an expert, just telling you my setup.
Hi. I'm on a steep learning curve here so bare with me please. Are you saying you have your draw length set one inch short? And if so how does this affect your anchor point? Second if your arrows are only half inch longer than your draw length does this create a problem when using broad heads? Thanks in advance.
 
Hi. I'm on a steep learning curve here so bare with me please. Are you saying you have your draw length set one inch short? And if so how does this affect your anchor point? Second if your arrows are only half inch longer than your draw length does this create a problem when using broad heads? Thanks in advance.
No, in fact sometimes I wonder if I should cut my arrows even 1/4” shorter yet! The closer you can safely get to your rest the faster your arrow will shoot. When at full draw my elbow is only very slightly bent, instead of locked out, to resist strain and fatigue.
 
Ive shot GT Pierce for a long time and on occasion think about going back to a full size XT shaft. As others have mentioned the weak point is the insert/component system.
 
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