Replacing Gas Line in Dutchmen Tent Trailer

[WyoDoug]

I have decided to replace the gas line in the tent trailer I bought at a good deal. Previous owner never used the gas. I am planning on going through and replace all the copper lines with new and where it runs underneath the trailer I want to protect it from rocks and other road hazards. I am leaning toward encasing it in either plastic hose or galvanized pipe. Suggestions?

I have done everything to try to get gas flow so I am down to this.

 

[warmer]

Seems odd that copper lines would be plugged. Are there any flared joints you could take apart and check for gas flow?

 

[WyoDoug]

Seems odd that copper lines would be plugged. Are there any flared joints you could take apart and check for gas flow?

That is one thing I am going to do before I go to the extremes of replacing the entire line. That includes hooking my air compressor up and blowing all the lines out. Since the propane system has not been used for some time, I have to check each hose and all of the copper pipe along with all the regulators. The cold quick connects could also be the problem. Just waiting so I can claim a 3 day weekend. Right now I am considered an essential personnel so I don't get the time others have. I also bought a adapter hose to connect my coleman laterns to the quick connects so I am going to use it to check the lines and eliminate the old regulators.

 

[Finngo]

That is one thing I am going to do before I go to the extremes of replacing the entire line. That includes hooking my air compressor up and blowing all the lines out. Since the propane system has not been used for some time, I have to check each hose and all of the copper pipe along with all the regulators. The cold quick connects could also be the problem. Just waiting so I can claim a 3 day weekend. Right now I am considered an essential personnel so I don't get the time others have. I also bought a adapter hose to connect my coleman laterns to the quick connects so I am going to use it to check the lines and eliminate the old regulators.

+1

 

[Slm864]

If you are unable to get the original setup to work I think I would be easiest to just get some 1/2” steel gas pipe from the hardware and run it underneath the camper. You can then run a piece of flex line into the camper wherever your appliance is that you need to tie into. I don’t feel you need to worry about encasing the pipe to prevent damage if it’s steel gas piping. It should be cheaper than copper as well and far more durable for the underside of the rig. Most hardwares or Lowe’s will lend you a set of hand threaders and cutter so you can run your new plumbing right along the frame and add your necessary fittings where needed.

 

[Slm864]

I have also seen the selector switch and regulators fail on campers on several occasions so I think your making the right move to verify that first.

 

[Wyoelk]

If you are unable to get the original setup to work I think I would be easiest to just get some 1/2” steel gas pipe from the hardware and run it underneath the camper. You can then run a piece of flex line into the camper wherever your appliance is that you need to tie into. I don’t feel you need to worry about encasing the pipe to prevent damage if it’s steel gas piping. It should be cheaper than copper as well and far more durable for the underside of the rig. Most hardwares or Lowe’s will lend you a set of hand threaders and cutter so you can run your new plumbing right along the frame and add your necessary fittings where needed.

I think this is right on the head, but first, I would rig a pressure gauge to it and try to pressure test it. If it holds pressure I would blow it out and use it.

 

[mplane72]

I have also seen the selector switch and regulators fail on campers on several occasions so I think your making the right move to verify that first.

This. I have a hard time believing the main lines would be plugged. Check the regulator and any check valves. I've seen both go bad and prevent flow.

 

[WyoDoug]

Where the main lines would be bad is if they are leaking somewhere. Regulators are then designed to shut off if there is excess flow.

 

[WyoDoug]

Here is what I found out:

Main line has a pinhole in it and leaks fast enough that the regulator closes gas pressure off. Located that by making a fitting that plugs one end of the tubing with my air compresses hose and the other, I put a plug with a flared fitting and ran about 60 psi and you could see where it was blowing out. There is a valve for those who don't know it that controls excess flow, required by DOT.

Anyways, going to replace the copper line. Found out you can't do it with solid line as that will break and somewhere down the line you have to connect flexible copper pipe anyways plus solid black pipe will not flex enough to withstand the rigors of the trailer going over rough road. Rubber hose is not the answer because LP gas causes a chemical reaction that builds oil in the line so you want as little rubber line as you can get away with. Going to replace it with new copper line with flared ends which are also required under DOT regs (as compared to compression fittings). Now I know why the previous owner sold the camping trailer to me for so cheap. It was still a good deal though. The line and new fittings will cost me maybe 50 bucks plus what I need for rest of the line if I replace that too. I am going to put new regulators in the refer, stove and heater though and probably the portable stove top just to make it last for my lifetime.

 

[elkhnter]

What about PEX gas line? A lot of the gas companies around here are using it. Expensive couplings.

 

[WyoDoug]

What about PEX gas line? A lot of the gas companies around here are using it. Expensive couplings.

I would not recommend that for straight propane supply because of the chemical reaction that occurs between propane and rubber or plastic materials resulting in oil buildup in the line that eventually fouls up your appliances. It is common practice to encase copper tubing inside of PEX lines to protect the copper tubing from flying debris which I might just do when I start this project.

 

[Bigjav]

I’d probably lean towards galvanized metal pipe, as I think it’d be hard to find anything tougher dollar for dollar

 

[WyoDoug]

I’d probably lean towards galvanized metal pipe, as I think it’d be hard to find anything tougher dollar for dollar

Not allowed under DOT regulations. Your tent trailers and pull behinds flex too much during travel especially over rough terrain and rigid pipe will crack, especially at the connection. If you ever lay a long straight edge known to be true and accurate across trailer frame from an old trailer, you will see that the frame has flexed a bit out of true. This might seem to be minor when you measure it, but it only takes about 1/8 inch flexing in the frame to bust rigid pipe connections. That is why it is not permitted in RV use.

 

[elkhnter]

Guess it’s CSST not PEX. Runs about $2 a foot, but worth every penny.

 

[WyoDoug]

Guess it’s CSST not PEX. Runs about $2 a foot, but worth every penny.

CSST might work I will definitely research it some more. It's already covered so the tubing itself would be protected from road debris and related hazards. It is flexible enough to meet DOT standards. So far it looks like you install it on a manifold system. Once I get it figured out, I may go to that.

 

[WyoDoug]

Here is the weakness on Proflex and Gastite CSST tubing. Proflex is 0.010" thick. Gastite is 0.008" thickness. The polyurethane jacket is designed to compensate for thinner walled tubing. Copper tubing intended to carry gas is 0.049" thickness.

CSST also calls for a grounding rod to be driven into the ground and a grounding cable connected to it and the frame. No problem there because I have a generator and do that anyways. Copper pipe does not but should in my opinion. Grounding is recommended in cases of lighting strikes or electrical shorts when you connect to AC.

CSST will not work in my case because I want to take my camper over roads that most RVs can not negotiate. I already have plastic tubing to install over copper pipe that I inherited from work when they were throwing it out. Going to stick with copper tubing and the plastic I got already due to the thickness issue.

 

[brokfut]

I was under my travel trailer yesterday checking some stuff and see there is a rigid steel gas pipe that runs the length of the trailer. All the service drops to various appliances is copper flex.
No way would I want laterals to be rigid but don't see any reason not to use parallel to the frame.

 

[WyoDoug]

I was under my travel trailer yesterday checking some stuff and see there is a rigid steel gas pipe that runs the length of the trailer. All the service drops to various appliances is copper flex.
No way would I want laterals to be rigid but don't see any reason not to use parallel to the frame.

I need to do some more research to give a clean answer, but if you were to put a straight edge all the way down your frame both long and width ways, my gut feeling is you are going to find some flexing in the frame. What I was advised by someone who does this for a living is that leaks may develop at the connections especially with trailers being pulled long distance. Those with stronger frames than my popup would probably get away with rigid pipe. I was also advised that rigid pipe is against DOT regulations for small popup trailers.

 

[warmer]

I couldn't imagine the DOT pulling you over and asking, "Sir, we need to check your gas line material. Will that be ok?" But I also understand the concern.