Nick87
Well-known member
Anyone here have a good bit of experience with raising/ planting trees. Maples in particular. I have a couple questions.
Planting trees
- Thread starter Nick87
- Start date
Jack Ryan
Active member
Not Maples for me but I think those grow fast given the ground and plenty of sun. I have transplanted ONE Maple. It was the biggest tree I ever transplanted and it lived. I drive by my old house and still see it there.
I've planted Pine, Spruce, Hemlock, apple, pear, plum, cypress, peach, persimmon, Buck haw, forcithia, rose of sharon, box wood, crab apple, dogwood, oak, chestnut.
I've planted Pine, Spruce, Hemlock, apple, pear, plum, cypress, peach, persimmon, Buck haw, forcithia, rose of sharon, box wood, crab apple, dogwood, oak, chestnut.
Nick87
Well-known member
How did you go about planting them if they say we're 10 to 12' tall. Can I get away without a machine to move them. Someoen said just roll them not sure how well that'll work?.
rookieforever33
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2026
- Messages
- 43
A 10-12' tree can be pretty heavy. Rolling it a short way while it is still burlapped shouldn't be a big deal. Getting it off of a truck or trailer may be.
Nick87
Well-known member
Trailer has a ramp. I think I can get it pretty close.
Jack Ryan
Active member
Get a tractor. #1 you are going to need for a property like I think you have. More than10acres.
Those are BIG trees. I wouldn't do it. The bigger the tree, the lower the % of survival, and the MORE EFFORT you have to put in to KEEPING it alive even after you get it planted and it is not easy job to plant.
You need to dig a hole twice as big as the root ball and spread out the roots when you unwrap it. After you plant it, SOAK that dirt down with water like you are drowning it. You don't know when was the last time it was watered before you got it and the water works the dirt down filling any air pockets. Don't expose the roots to the sun any more than you absolutely have to. Water thoroughly once a week through the dry season or any time the grass around the area starts turning yellow.
Check with your county extension agent to BE SURE the species you are buying is suitable for the place you want to put them.
My FIRST tree experience: I wanted big spruce, fast, as a cover block along the road. Wanted it done right so I bought them all from a "PRO" and they planted them all. Even got a "guarantee" for a year, and all of that COST A LOT OF MONEY. ALL OF THOSE TREES WERE DEAD 10 YEARS LATER OR LESS.
DON'T TRUST ANY ONE who makes their living selling you something.
Never plant plum trees.
What ever you plant, plant them one at a time. You can dig all the holes at once, but don't unwrap them until you are ready to put it in the hole. Then don't stop on that one until all the dirt is in the hole AND IT IS STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN. It will NEVER get better than it is the day you fill the hole.
I'd suggest you DON'T BUY ANY THING but seedlings and get them from your state tree nursery. For everything else, dig them up where they are not wanted or appreciated and plant them where you do want them. Pick first year seedlings or never more than 2-3 feet high. That is how I got ALL OF MY MOST FAVORITE TREES. My trees are my memories of people who were "on that hike" with me. Gave me some seedlings. Homes I've lived in or things like that.
For one thing, you know they are suitable to your environment if there are adult trees around and they are reproducing. They are free, so you can plant 2 for everyplace you want 1. If they both live, cut one down, you'll hit half of them with the lawn mower any way.
If they are surviving on their own, you don't have to baby them more than the first summer and the deer won't eat them all over night when you aren't looking. The deer WILL eat the tips off about any thing and the better you can protect it, the faster you will get what you want. Sometimes TWICE as fast compared to no protection.
This is what I put around brand new apple and peach trees the day I planted them two years ago.
Those are BIG trees. I wouldn't do it. The bigger the tree, the lower the % of survival, and the MORE EFFORT you have to put in to KEEPING it alive even after you get it planted and it is not easy job to plant.
You need to dig a hole twice as big as the root ball and spread out the roots when you unwrap it. After you plant it, SOAK that dirt down with water like you are drowning it. You don't know when was the last time it was watered before you got it and the water works the dirt down filling any air pockets. Don't expose the roots to the sun any more than you absolutely have to. Water thoroughly once a week through the dry season or any time the grass around the area starts turning yellow.
Check with your county extension agent to BE SURE the species you are buying is suitable for the place you want to put them.
My FIRST tree experience: I wanted big spruce, fast, as a cover block along the road. Wanted it done right so I bought them all from a "PRO" and they planted them all. Even got a "guarantee" for a year, and all of that COST A LOT OF MONEY. ALL OF THOSE TREES WERE DEAD 10 YEARS LATER OR LESS.
DON'T TRUST ANY ONE who makes their living selling you something.
Never plant plum trees.
What ever you plant, plant them one at a time. You can dig all the holes at once, but don't unwrap them until you are ready to put it in the hole. Then don't stop on that one until all the dirt is in the hole AND IT IS STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN. It will NEVER get better than it is the day you fill the hole.
I'd suggest you DON'T BUY ANY THING but seedlings and get them from your state tree nursery. For everything else, dig them up where they are not wanted or appreciated and plant them where you do want them. Pick first year seedlings or never more than 2-3 feet high. That is how I got ALL OF MY MOST FAVORITE TREES. My trees are my memories of people who were "on that hike" with me. Gave me some seedlings. Homes I've lived in or things like that.
For one thing, you know they are suitable to your environment if there are adult trees around and they are reproducing. They are free, so you can plant 2 for everyplace you want 1. If they both live, cut one down, you'll hit half of them with the lawn mower any way.
If they are surviving on their own, you don't have to baby them more than the first summer and the deer won't eat them all over night when you aren't looking. The deer WILL eat the tips off about any thing and the better you can protect it, the faster you will get what you want. Sometimes TWICE as fast compared to no protection.
This is what I put around brand new apple and peach trees the day I planted them two years ago.
Last edited:
Jack Ryan
Active member
Now you can't even see my house from there.
These are Bald Cypress seedlings I planted 20 years ago along my driveway.
These are Bald Cypress seedlings I planted 20 years ago along my driveway.
Last edited:
Jack Ryan
Active member
I just bought this place 3 years ago and planted this variety along the road to stop the spot lighters, road hunters and trespassers. Instead of fence I dragged dead trees out of the forest and laid them along the road right next to the pavement to keep people ON the road and OFF my trees/land. You can barely tell but they are there like giant rough speed bumps under the grass. Those pines are mostly about 8 feet tall now.
Jack Ryan
Active member
This was part of my solution to watering trees. They need a LOT of water in dry weather and you will get a LOT faster growth even in the first year. Catch water off the barn and garage rooves and I can haul one of those half full on the back of my tractor when I need to water stuff the hose won't reach from there.
seeth07
Well-known member
For the 15 years we have owned our home, we have planted trees every single spring. Lessons learned:
1) planting in the cooler, rainy Midwest spring was strongly recommended to us and no regrets. Very little time ever watering anything we have planted.
2) having full sun is a huge deal. Trees planted in areas where they dont get full sun grow significantly slower. Half sun and its probably 1/3rd the growth rate or perhaps even less.
3) deer suck, shoot them all or secure your trees behind an electric fence. All other methods fail to a big angry buck. Or just plan on buck tree kill.
4) arbor day and state nursery seedlings are ok but we have by far been the most successful with 3 to 4 foot 3 year old trees from a local tree farm by us. Every spring they sell over stock in early April first come first serve for 10 to 20 bucks a tree. These are easy to manage and have a survival rate probably over 80% or more at the end of the first year counting deer destroyed trees.
5) We use the excavator and dig a 24 inch bucket worth hole, place the tree and fill with new black dirt we harvest from our land in our marsh. High nutrient rich soil.
1) planting in the cooler, rainy Midwest spring was strongly recommended to us and no regrets. Very little time ever watering anything we have planted.
2) having full sun is a huge deal. Trees planted in areas where they dont get full sun grow significantly slower. Half sun and its probably 1/3rd the growth rate or perhaps even less.
3) deer suck, shoot them all or secure your trees behind an electric fence. All other methods fail to a big angry buck. Or just plan on buck tree kill.
4) arbor day and state nursery seedlings are ok but we have by far been the most successful with 3 to 4 foot 3 year old trees from a local tree farm by us. Every spring they sell over stock in early April first come first serve for 10 to 20 bucks a tree. These are easy to manage and have a survival rate probably over 80% or more at the end of the first year counting deer destroyed trees.
5) We use the excavator and dig a 24 inch bucket worth hole, place the tree and fill with new black dirt we harvest from our land in our marsh. High nutrient rich soil.
Big Sky Guy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2018
- Messages
- 1,126
I’ve slowed down on my tree planting. Moving from Ohio where a tree will grow just about anywhere you put it to Montana where it’s arid, windy and the ground is second in hardness to concrete has been a challenge. Maple trees grow in gutters in the Midwest so I think you’ll be fine.
I will second getting smaller trees. My experience with aspens have proven this every time. One of our aspens we planted about 10 years ago shot off shoots two summers ago and is about 1/2 the size of the adult tree already. I also transplanted a very large aspen that somehow managed to survive and I swear it has not grown a single bit in the 8 or so years it’s been there, very bizarre.
I will second getting smaller trees. My experience with aspens have proven this every time. One of our aspens we planted about 10 years ago shot off shoots two summers ago and is about 1/2 the size of the adult tree already. I also transplanted a very large aspen that somehow managed to survive and I swear it has not grown a single bit in the 8 or so years it’s been there, very bizarre.
Wild harvested trees are often hardier, but they’re more likely to have “less favorable” characteristics. They might now have the incredibly flashy fall colors, or have the perfect crown canopy, but they’re more adapt to the local growing conditions.
Most maples are pretty bullet proof. Silvers grow fast but die fast. Can be messy. Make sure your root flare is exposed and dig a nice wide hole. Stake it for the first couple years. Each tree is different. Some firm up quicker. Infrequent, but deep watering helps drive roots deep and wide to search for water and eastsblish a robust root system. Get a tree watering bag if it’s somewhere you can drag a hose to.
Most maples are pretty bullet proof. Silvers grow fast but die fast. Can be messy. Make sure your root flare is exposed and dig a nice wide hole. Stake it for the first couple years. Each tree is different. Some firm up quicker. Infrequent, but deep watering helps drive roots deep and wide to search for water and eastsblish a robust root system. Get a tree watering bag if it’s somewhere you can drag a hose to.
I've planted around 40,000 trees on my place.
Maples are about like weeds around here, pretty easy and forgiving.
So long as you don't destroy all the roots digging it, then be as gentle as possible (can be tough) getting it into the new hole at proper depth, nice and straight, etc. it will likely grow just fine so long as you keep watering it until it gets going on it's own. Usually have to cage newly planted trees around here to protect from the deer.
Maples are about like weeds around here, pretty easy and forgiving.
So long as you don't destroy all the roots digging it, then be as gentle as possible (can be tough) getting it into the new hole at proper depth, nice and straight, etc. it will likely grow just fine so long as you keep watering it until it gets going on it's own. Usually have to cage newly planted trees around here to protect from the deer.
Addicting
Well-known member
Are you trying to get burlaped, potted, or wild trees? By to them I would think burlap but I didn’t see what type.
Nick87
Well-known member
Burlaped 2.5" diameter autumn blaze maple. Im losing my only shade tree and the patio is on the west side. These are supposed to be fastest growing.
Caseknife
Well-known member
Put a tarp under it to drag it to where you want. Dig a BIG hole, don't try to lift the tree by the trunk unless it is vertically. Remove the burlap and open up the root wad and get them spread out in the hole. Stake securely, fence from deer, and water religiously. Make sure that it is away from sewer/water pipes and that you account for full size canopy growth.
