44hunter45
Well-known member
Well here we go. $700 at Autozone, Ace Hardware, and LMC truck today.
I'm definitely going to have to pace myself on this.
I'm definitely going to have to pace myself on this.
New to me 1982 GMC 3/4 Ton Square Body
- Thread starter 44hunter45
- Start date
Hell, you're just getting started!
44hunter45
Well-known member
Seller tried to delete the Air Pump but buggered up the vacuum routing. I get it, but at least cap the open vac ports on the carburetor and manifold.
Not going to pay Meineke $1200 for exhaust. Bought kit from LMC today and I will do it myself. Bolt-up for now and the MIG later if I need to.
Not going to pay Meineke $1200 for exhaust. Bought kit from LMC today and I will do it myself. Bolt-up for now and the MIG later if I need to.
44hunter45
Well-known member
Got a big LMC Truck order.
Repaired:
1. Glove Box
2. Window seals in both doors
3. Door latchpost sleeves and adjust doors.
4. New amber running light/turn signals in the front bumper.
5. New rubber on the pedals.
6. Wiper blades.
7. Glued rear-view mirror back on windshield.
8. Replaced a missing lug nut.
Starting LMC full dual exhaust bolt-on kit tomorrow after work. Once it's hung right and tight, I will weld it up. The kit opens the pipes to 2 1/2" full length. With the pipes in place I'm ready to go off-road without worrying about starting a fire.
Found some wiring stuff I need to check out.
Need a passenger side door mirror.
Parking brake cable is frayed from the exhaust hanging on it and rubbing. I will replace that after the pipes are secured.
Not throwing any more money at this until the shop is built.
Repaired:
1. Glove Box
2. Window seals in both doors
3. Door latchpost sleeves and adjust doors.
4. New amber running light/turn signals in the front bumper.
5. New rubber on the pedals.
6. Wiper blades.
7. Glued rear-view mirror back on windshield.
8. Replaced a missing lug nut.
Starting LMC full dual exhaust bolt-on kit tomorrow after work. Once it's hung right and tight, I will weld it up. The kit opens the pipes to 2 1/2" full length. With the pipes in place I'm ready to go off-road without worrying about starting a fire.
Found some wiring stuff I need to check out.
Need a passenger side door mirror.
Parking brake cable is frayed from the exhaust hanging on it and rubbing. I will replace that after the pipes are secured.
Not throwing any more money at this until the shop is built.
44hunter45
Well-known member
Working installing the new 2 1/4” exhaust kit. Not quite drop in.
It puts the mufflers way forward and too close to the drive shaft.
Lots of deburring the tubing out of the box. Dry fit everything.
I am going to have to cut 18” off the muffler exit tubes and move it forward.
Have a family thing this weekend so the tools are all put away for now.
August is shot. Decided I will pass on return to POW in September. Sunk money paradox. Need to conserve for the shop project.
It puts the mufflers way forward and too close to the drive shaft.
Lots of deburring the tubing out of the box. Dry fit everything.
I am going to have to cut 18” off the muffler exit tubes and move it forward.
Have a family thing this weekend so the tools are all put away for now.
August is shot. Decided I will pass on return to POW in September. Sunk money paradox. Need to conserve for the shop project.
44hunter45
Well-known member
Driver's side exhaust is hung as far as the muffler. You can do chin-ups on it. I added the 18" of pipe to move the Turbos back.
LMC kit does not include the 5/16" fender washers you need to properly squeeze down the rubber grommets in their hanger mounts. I got 8 at Napa for less than $3, but that's another trip if you don't plan ahead.
I had some tight slip couplings. $34 for a 2 1/8" & larger pipe expansion/flaring tool at harbor freight. It paid for itself.
I will run the passenger side tomorrow after work.
Finally, I will cut the exit piping down to get the factory look coming out behind the rear tires.
The kit only comes with four hangers. I'm adding more at the final turn. Autozone has the ones I want.
I am removing the factory exhaust hanger from the frame. The truck was originally a single exhaust. I want symmetry and something lighter. I will keep it or put it on GM Squarebody forums for sale.
I am left with only one concern. The driver's side coming off the manifold is less than an inch from the oil filter. I'm hoping that doesn't give me heat problems. Or make it impossible to replace the filter. I installed a filter move kit on my 1979. I'm not sure you can still get those.
LMC kit does not include the 5/16" fender washers you need to properly squeeze down the rubber grommets in their hanger mounts. I got 8 at Napa for less than $3, but that's another trip if you don't plan ahead.
I had some tight slip couplings. $34 for a 2 1/8" & larger pipe expansion/flaring tool at harbor freight. It paid for itself.
I will run the passenger side tomorrow after work.
Finally, I will cut the exit piping down to get the factory look coming out behind the rear tires.
The kit only comes with four hangers. I'm adding more at the final turn. Autozone has the ones I want.
I am removing the factory exhaust hanger from the frame. The truck was originally a single exhaust. I want symmetry and something lighter. I will keep it or put it on GM Squarebody forums for sale.
I am left with only one concern. The driver's side coming off the manifold is less than an inch from the oil filter. I'm hoping that doesn't give me heat problems. Or make it impossible to replace the filter. I installed a filter move kit on my 1979. I'm not sure you can still get those.
Mine has dual exhaust. I'll have to look how close it is to the oil filter. I don't rember an issue. Mine exits right behind the rear tire. mtmuley
@44hunter45, I'll crawl under my truck tomorrow and try to get a picture of the exhaust/oil filter clearance. mtmuley
44hunter45
Well-known member
44hunter45
Well-known member
I got the passenger side bolted up tonight as well.
Sounds pretty good. I'm going to start on the tail pipe hanging tomorrow.
Sounds pretty good. I'm going to start on the tail pipe hanging tomorrow.
Mine still has the stock pieces from the manifolds down. Looks pretty close. Never a problem. I just noticed that cheesy connection. Gonna deal with that. mtmuley
44hunter45
Well-known member
Mine is way closer but I think it will be ok. I'm close to the fuel line and tank switch in a couple places too. I'm hoping that is out past the high temp zone.
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Good deal. My old beast doesn't even leak oil. Amazing after 40 years. mtmuley
44hunter45
Well-known member
I bet you are good. Looks nice. mtmuley
44hunter45
Well-known member
Pipes are done and sound decent.
I have to take it to a local guy for a custom bend where the LMC kit touches a metal fuel line. Not just dangerous, but likely to cause regular vapor locks. I'm having him add about 6 more inches so I can have room for mud flaps should I want them later.
A lot more blue smoke visible now with new pipes. Same amount as before, just visible now. Or may be it's running rich. I haven't dug into that yet.
Now cleaning up the rear light wiring harness. The last owner jacked it up pretty bad. My OCD makes me restore it to factory colors. Thankfully I have a cabinet full of the stuff.
I installed LED lights in all the rear sockets, left the fronts standard. This save a ton of electrical engineering getting the blinkers to work right.
I did replace all the dashboard 194 bulbs with LEDs and bought a PWM dimmer for the cluster lights. LEDs will not dim properly with the OEM rheostat on the light switch. I will keep the OEM switch, but pull the cluster lights over to the PWM dimmer. I will hide the PWM discretely accessible under the dash.
The last thing planned for tomorrow is to re-install the 7 Blade RV trailer plug. Napa has RV trailer wire in a blundle that looks like a round AC extension cord. All seven wires are in it and in the correct colors. WAY cheaper than buy individual wire spool 10 feet long for $16/color. I have the long 10 gauge I need to go to the brake controller and battery feed.
I have to take it to a local guy for a custom bend where the LMC kit touches a metal fuel line. Not just dangerous, but likely to cause regular vapor locks. I'm having him add about 6 more inches so I can have room for mud flaps should I want them later.
A lot more blue smoke visible now with new pipes. Same amount as before, just visible now. Or may be it's running rich. I haven't dug into that yet.
Now cleaning up the rear light wiring harness. The last owner jacked it up pretty bad. My OCD makes me restore it to factory colors. Thankfully I have a cabinet full of the stuff.
I installed LED lights in all the rear sockets, left the fronts standard. This save a ton of electrical engineering getting the blinkers to work right.
I did replace all the dashboard 194 bulbs with LEDs and bought a PWM dimmer for the cluster lights. LEDs will not dim properly with the OEM rheostat on the light switch. I will keep the OEM switch, but pull the cluster lights over to the PWM dimmer. I will hide the PWM discretely accessible under the dash.
The last thing planned for tomorrow is to re-install the 7 Blade RV trailer plug. Napa has RV trailer wire in a blundle that looks like a round AC extension cord. All seven wires are in it and in the correct colors. WAY cheaper than buy individual wire spool 10 feet long for $16/color. I have the long 10 gauge I need to go to the brake controller and battery feed.
44hunter45
Well-known member
It just occurred to me those hose clamps make no sense.
44hunter45
Well-known member
Finished cleaning up the rear lights and trailer 7 Blade wiring. I still had my '82 K2500 raised. Ramps under the rear and jack stands in front.
I have the seat out because I'm debugging the snipped 4WD indicator circuit.
Wanted to check the blinkers and backup lights. I climbed in and sat on the floor. I put the transmission in reverse and turned on the key. It started in reverse and drove off the ramps and jack stands. Scary and exciting trying to get the clutch in while sitting on the floor.
It appears I now need to debug the clutch interlock switch.
Just a warning to never trust mechanical or electrical safeties. Remote start buttons or a faulty clutch interlock will allow a rig to start in gear. If you are in the wrong place when it happens, you're in trouble.
I found the clutch safety switch was bypassed by the PO. The wires are soldered together.
I have the seat out because I'm debugging the snipped 4WD indicator circuit.
Wanted to check the blinkers and backup lights. I climbed in and sat on the floor. I put the transmission in reverse and turned on the key. It started in reverse and drove off the ramps and jack stands. Scary and exciting trying to get the clutch in while sitting on the floor.
It appears I now need to debug the clutch interlock switch.
Just a warning to never trust mechanical or electrical safeties. Remote start buttons or a faulty clutch interlock will allow a rig to start in gear. If you are in the wrong place when it happens, you're in trouble.
I found the clutch safety switch was bypassed by the PO. The wires are soldered together.
That'll wake up a guy!
