Yeti

new shooter, new bow, Bear Arena 30, tips?

huntfishcamp

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hello all, I am brand new to Archery and planning a CO elk hunt this Fall. I've elk hunted rifle/muzzleloader, so time to make it even more difficult :)

Yesterday I shot 5 different bows at a pro shop all in similar price range and picked the Bear Arena 30, I know Bear isnt the most popular brand but it fit really well and shot really well for me, and super excited to start practicing. Its quite an investment as you know and curious if anyone else out there has shot this new bow, what they like/dont like, the arrows/broadheads you like to shoot out of it? Thanks
 

JohnCushman

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You're going to get a ton of opinions and reviews about what bows guys think you should have bought. I'm a Mathews shooter, but I'm happy you shot a lot of bows and chose one that you like that you shoot well that fits you well. Now, practice, practice, practice!! Welcome to the addiction! :D
 

MinnesotaHunter

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I have not shot that bow, but what John said is true. The key is finding a bow that fits you, and it sounds like you have. Now that you have it, shoot the heck out of it. When it comes to arrows heavier is better for elk, but again it is about finding the combination that shoots well out of your bow. I have had bad luck recently with the outserts on the Victory VAPs, and switched to the Goldtip Kinetics, and I have been very happy with them. Also, tuning your bow is even more critical when you start shooting broadheads, take the time to fine tune your bow, it will pay off in the long run.

Peruse the archery area on here, most of these topics have been discussed in depth, so there is a pretty huge repository of info to be had already.
 

JLS

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I shoot Carbon Express Maxima Hunters, but in all reality the brand you choose isn't going to make that much difference. Try to find something around 9 grains per inch. Make sure the arrows you get have some helical/offset to the fletching. Otherwise your broadhead flight will suck.

As for broadheads, pretty much the same thing as arrows. I shoot Slick Tricks, but there are a number of very good broadheads available like Magnus, Muzzy, Slick Trick, etc.

It might be worth your time to invest in a lesson or two to make sure that you learn to shoot properly from the start, i.e. using your back muscles to pull and hold the bow, how to properly grip the bow, using back tension to activate your release, not punching the trigger, and so on.
 

JohnCushman

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Look for an archery league in your area. Get involved in some 3D tournaments or indoor leagues. I agrees with JLS and invest in some lessons. Inconsistent form can wreak havoc on your shooting. Also, try a couple of different releases. Just like bows, releases are a matter of fit and function.
 

JLS

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Good point John on the release. If you have a release that has an adjustable trigger poundage (which you should), set the trigger heavy. I know this is counterintuitive to what you would think relative to a rifle, but a light trigger will promote the habit of punching the trigger and will not allow you to learn the proper way to shoot with back tension.

I've been shooting the same Scott Little Goose for 15 years now, although I am thinking really hard about springing for a Carter Like Mike.
 

MtnWest

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Hard to go wrong with any new bow nowadays. If that's the one that felt best then you bought the right one.

You'll love archery hunting elk, congrats and have fun.
 

cowboy

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Good point John on the release. If you have a release that has an adjustable trigger poundage (which you should), set the trigger heavy. I know this is counterintuitive to what you would think relative to a rifle, but a light trigger will promote the habit of punching the trigger and will not allow you to learn the proper way to shoot with back tension..

Don't want to high jack the OP thread but have any other guys found that a heavier trigger helps to not punch the trigger. Never thought about it but it does make sense.

I'm beginning to think all them years of bench rest shooting with a light trigger made me develop a bad habit with a bow that has been tough for me to break myself of punching the trigger.
 

TheTone

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Don't want to high jack the OP thread but have any other guys found that a heavier trigger helps to not punch the trigger. Never thought about it but it does make sense.

I'm beginning to think all them years of bench rest shooting with a light trigger made me develop a bad habit with a bow that has been tough for me to break myself of punching the trigger.

I've been shooting a really heavy trigger on a Carter 2 shot for about 10 years now. I believe mine are set up with the heaviest spring that carter puts in them and have been extremely happy.
 
M

MN Public Hunter

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I switched over to carbon arrows a few years back and I shoot the Carbon Express and they work real well for me. The shop you tried all the bows at should be able to help you select the proper arrow for the bow you selected.
 

huntfishcamp

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thanks for the info, the pro shop is in MN, Schaffers pro shop, they fitted my bow with their Schaffer opposition sight and rest, I told John Schaffer I wanted a setup for elk, kinda got sales talked into their products, as a newbe I didnt really know better but his sight and rest seem to get good reviews, really curious if anyone has used this sight and/'or rest and your experiences with it?
 

Epfd217

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I've purchased bows from Schaffer's but its not a great place for a beginner for the very reason you mentioned. They are a little heavy on the products. They do make decent stuff, but there are lots of rests and sights out there.

Schaffer's will help you with arrows and broadheads, but I would just get a dozen carbon arrows and some 100 gr. field tips and spend some time practicing. Learn some more, talk to a few more people and you may settle on what kind of broadheads you want to buy. Most people have several kinds of broadheads lying around that you can practice with during the summer.

I'm in the SW metro and I prefer Cabin Fever in Victoria for my archery needs. Let me know if you want to go shooting sometime.
 
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