Muzzle Brake Removal on Savage 110 (timberline)

  • Thread starter Deleted member 52098
  • Start date
So, has anyone had any luck with using Kroil? I recently purchased a 110 Timberline chambered in 7mm Backcountry and you absolutely cannot shoot that thing without hearing protection. I had to send it back to Savage to get the chamber polished as the fired steel alloy casings were jamming in the chamber. That's a whole other story but while they had it I also asked them to remove the muzzle brake but of course they ignored that request. I suspect they spray the threads with Cerakote before installing the brake which makes it damned near impossible to remove. One of the reasons I bought a 7mm BC was that it has excellent velocity out of a 20" barrel which makes it a perfect candidate for a suppressor. Can't do that if you can't get the flipping brake off. Idiots.
 
I’m about to attempt a radial brake removal. It’s a take off barrel and I have a barrel vise. Think I’ll blast the brake with a torch and try a punch or hammer on a punch to break the brake free. (See what I did there? 🤣)
 
Har har. You need to take a "brake" from comedy. :rolleyes:

BTW, when I first asked Savage how to remove their muzzle brake they told me they couldn't tell me gunsmithing methods over the phone. The next time I mentioned it to a different Savage employee that person told me they first have to heat the brake before attempting to remove it and that you can use a flame but a heat gun is less likely to damage the finish, if that's something you might be concerned about. However, they did have me send it back so they could do it themselves at no charge. Too bad they were never able to cure the cartridge jamming issue. I sent it back for the third time and this time they kept it and said they would send a replacement gun whenever that particular model goes back into production. I'm still waiting........:(
 
Har har. You need to take a "brake" from comedy. :rolleyes:

BTW, when I first asked Savage how to remove their muzzle brake they told me they couldn't tell me gunsmithing methods over the phone. The next time I mentioned it to a different Savage employee that person told me they first have to heat the brake before attempting to remove it and that you can use a flame but a heat gun is less likely to damage the finish, if that's something you might be concerned about. However, they did have me send it back so they could do it themselves at no charge. Too bad they were never able to cure the cartridge jamming issue. I sent it back for the third time and this time they kept it and said they would send a replacement gun whenever that particular model goes back into production. I'm still waiting........:(
I don’t care if I ruin that radial brake! Lol
I do have a heat gun though. Will try that first.
I’ve cured the Savage cartridge jamming issue by beveling the ejector towards the firing pin hole about 20 degrees. Just marked on the ejector the side that faces the firing pin hole and flat filed it.

Keeps the case head from blowing by the bolt face as it comes out the magazine.
 

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