Mustangs Rule
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- Feb 4, 2021
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The gateway between America’s SW Deserts and our High Mountain West is the Virgin River Gorge. It connects Mesquite, Nevada, with St. George Utah
In just over a half an hour of driving on Interstate 15, you pass though 500 million years of geological time and one of the best possible places to view desert bighorn sheep. Binoculars and better yet a spotting scope are a must, as well as ear plugs. Needed to deaden the noise from the semi- trucks bouncing off the canyon walls.
I-15 has parking pull-outs in the canyon and does not always follow the Virgin River. You can leave the highway, and hike the Virgin river to explore the bends and spurs off the main canyon.
Do that and you enter absolute ancientness.
Native American Rock art is abundant, silence is golden and the surprise pools of quicksand can drop you deep in a second. Do not try to run out. You’ll just sink deeper. Quicksand does not suck. It is just underground springs coming to the surface through sand often right in the river where you are hiking. Train yourself to fall flat immediately when you feel your feet disappear. Get over getting wet, and then swim out. So easy!
Some years ago a semi-truck hauling pigs rolled over in the gorge and they escaped into the Arizona Strip, which is all of that state north of the Grand Canyon and the Colorado River. It is the largest piece of dry wilderness in North America.
Further down the Virgin River, there was a canned hunt operation for imported genetically pure Big Black Russian Boar. The target clients were tourists in Las Vegas, which is an hour and a half away. A flash flood came through and freed the boar. They invaded The Arizona Strip with their domestic pig cousins, which soon died out. Only the toughest can survive “The Strip” but could it survive yet another environmental beating?
It was seriously overgrazed by sheep and cattle ranchers. Then Teddy Roosevelt, who I normally admire, decided to turn The Strip into a mule deer paradise and authorized the killing of every predator; 600 Mt. Lions, the last of the wolves and 7,000 coyotes. Without predators, the deer population went from 4,000 in 1905 to a very skinny100,000 in 1925. Then the land was devastated and 60,000 deer died. Many parts of the land there still have not recoverd!
Read any book about deer populations and range management and this classic tragedy of removing predators from The Strip, will be lesson #1 about what not to do. The Strip, and especially the higher elevation part of it, The Kaibab Plateau, was once the premier place in the west to hunt the most magnificent mule deer, who did just fine with all the predators. The herds were trim, healthy and in balance with their environment. Human meddling ruined it, over and over.
With great effort over almost a century, field biologists were finally getting The Strip kind of right, then the pigs and boar came in. The damage they were doing was epic. They fouled precious waterholes with their excrement, driving out mule deer, desert bighorns and all other wildlife. They gobbled up wild turkey eggs and the pigs/boars rooting became a mega erosion problem.
The Arizona F and G Department allowed hunters from anywhere, to come anytime and hunt those super destructive boar/pigs, with no tags needed, no bag limits, no closed seasons nor any license required. Eventually it would be cowboys coming down from Utah with their horses and hounds who cleaned them out. I made two hunting trips there, one before the cowboy clean up and one after it.
On both these adventures, and many more elsewhere, one of my closest friends and best ever hunting partner would drive or fly from super cold Wyoming to meet me.
Depending on where we were entering The Strip, from, west or north, we would meet either in Mesquite, Nevada or St. George, Utah. We would check in at the BLM office, get info, then buy any last items before going the 40, even 50 miles one way into this vast dry wilderness. Leaving from Utah in early March on our first trip was not a win. We had to cross too much snowy higher country.
The daytime melted snow and mud mix was 4-6 inches deep in the ruts. It was like driving through cold, wet, thick concrete. Don, my friend was going first, going fast, breaking trail in his heavy full sized 4X4 pickup. I followed him more slowly in my smaller Toyota Land Cruiser.
The next morning both his front tires were half flat. Driving through that mix of snow and mud so fast, forced a sandy thick wet grit into the tire beads and caused slow leaks. Lucky he brought a 12 volt tire pump. He had to use it twice every day. We lost a day and a half driving these higher elevation sloppy roads. We came away feeling lucky to get out!
Later in St. George, when going back, Don had his tires taken off the rims, then cleaned off the fine sandy grit. The fellow at the garage said this happens regularly in The Strip during the late winter and early spring. Tow/vehicle service deep into the Arizona Strip can start at $1,500.
Once over the high country, we began seeing boar and sign. They were huge and looked like a line of black Volkswagens with legs, following each other on invisible trails on high grassy slopes. The next morning we hiked up.
For their size, pigs/wild boar have small feet. I have hunted tons of them on huge barley ranches. The large size of the tracks here, plus how deep in the ground they were, shocked me. These boar were really heavy and huge, dense bundles of meanness. They co-evolved with Tigers, an even match.
While exploring the dry, grassy slopes they came down from, we encountered the first of two range bulls that refused to be rounded up when the cattle were removed. When he saw us he tossed his head, pawed the ground and stood there in his cloud of dust staring boldly at us. On the way up we saw his giant tracks. “Mbogo”! In my mid-teens I was chased up a tree by our neighboring farmers breeding bull. I had deep respect for their overload of testosterone.
My rifle, a Winchester model 70 chambered in the 6.5x55 Swede felt like a pea-shooter. Don felt the same way about his .270.
It took us two days to find these boar again. They had dropped down into a lower more moist washes and were feeding in the tall jungle like tangles of prickly pear cactus. Again the tracks were jaw dropping.
As we were about to stalk into the tangle after them, Don asked me to once again tell him the two stories I heard first hand from the people who actually had real life experiences with large Russian boar.
Sue and her husband owned a 3,000 acre barley ranch where pigs/wild boar were always a problem.
When a sow boar was killed by a hunter, Sue adopted male piglet and named him Gordo, the fat one. This boar lost it’s house privileges hopping up on her bed one morning when it weighed 100 pounds. Eventually Gordo hit the 400 pound mark, grew huge sharp tusks. The neighbors would see Gordo, Sue and the little beagle that acted as Gordo’s mom when he was a piglet, all walking happily to the mailbox together.
The other story I heard first hand from a rancher who rode his horse into a chaparral thicket with the intention to shooting a big boar with his 44 mag revolver. The boar charged, came in low and with his long sharp tusks, “unzipped” his horses belly and it’s intestines just dropped out while the rancher was still in the saddle.
Don and I used an incoming storm as an excuse to leave and go west to Mesquite, Nevada. We played some golf, sat in the Moapa Hot Springs and the next day visited the Valley of Fire State Park. It has amazing rock art.
The following year Don and I met in Fairbanks, Alaska for our annual hunting/outdoor adventure together.
It was two years before we returned to The Strip, making sure we each “had enough gun” for either boar or bull.
By then the Cowboys with hounds did a great pig/boar cleanup. We saw little sign in the large valley where tracks were abundant two years ago. We again became curious about a flat top mountain. It looked impossible to climb with sheer volcanic basalt cliffs on all sides.
One day when glassing it, we saw a big black Russian boar over half way up. We grabbed our rifles and were working our way up through a high Juniper woodland, when we picked up wild boar tracks, lots of them, most small, one big set. A sow and her huge litter.
Hmm, kill the sow and the young would all die! Good for the land and native wildlife but that would be death for so many young ones. The environmental damage from these boar was still obvious everywhere. What to do? Our answer came soon.
We found the most incredible example ever of a hoofed animal mother caring for her young. This Russian boar sow, had stripped soft bark off juniper trees and created the most perfect nursery nest. It was a meticulously woven of soft bark and was a work of art. How could any animal make something so complex without hands? Boar/pigs are smart, but this nest was beyond imagination. It was about 6 feet around and a foot high with no dung in it.
The boar piglets stayed in the nursing nest till they could jump out and forage with her. My friend and I looked at the complexity, quality and the cleanliness of this nursery and decided we just could not shoot such an exemplary mother.
We gave up our hunt, hiked a bit higher on a difficult trail that might take us to the top. We were deciding whether to keep scouting new steep territory. Then we looked down!
We saw something that should have never been there in this extreme desert. We had just entered the wildlife Twilight Zone. Both of us had enough outdoor and hunting experience to know what were looking at.
My friend said it first; “Holy Shit”!
I looked down again in disbelief and said; “Yeah, that really is Holy Shit”!
In just over a half an hour of driving on Interstate 15, you pass though 500 million years of geological time and one of the best possible places to view desert bighorn sheep. Binoculars and better yet a spotting scope are a must, as well as ear plugs. Needed to deaden the noise from the semi- trucks bouncing off the canyon walls.
I-15 has parking pull-outs in the canyon and does not always follow the Virgin River. You can leave the highway, and hike the Virgin river to explore the bends and spurs off the main canyon.
Do that and you enter absolute ancientness.
Native American Rock art is abundant, silence is golden and the surprise pools of quicksand can drop you deep in a second. Do not try to run out. You’ll just sink deeper. Quicksand does not suck. It is just underground springs coming to the surface through sand often right in the river where you are hiking. Train yourself to fall flat immediately when you feel your feet disappear. Get over getting wet, and then swim out. So easy!
Some years ago a semi-truck hauling pigs rolled over in the gorge and they escaped into the Arizona Strip, which is all of that state north of the Grand Canyon and the Colorado River. It is the largest piece of dry wilderness in North America.
Further down the Virgin River, there was a canned hunt operation for imported genetically pure Big Black Russian Boar. The target clients were tourists in Las Vegas, which is an hour and a half away. A flash flood came through and freed the boar. They invaded The Arizona Strip with their domestic pig cousins, which soon died out. Only the toughest can survive “The Strip” but could it survive yet another environmental beating?
It was seriously overgrazed by sheep and cattle ranchers. Then Teddy Roosevelt, who I normally admire, decided to turn The Strip into a mule deer paradise and authorized the killing of every predator; 600 Mt. Lions, the last of the wolves and 7,000 coyotes. Without predators, the deer population went from 4,000 in 1905 to a very skinny100,000 in 1925. Then the land was devastated and 60,000 deer died. Many parts of the land there still have not recoverd!
Read any book about deer populations and range management and this classic tragedy of removing predators from The Strip, will be lesson #1 about what not to do. The Strip, and especially the higher elevation part of it, The Kaibab Plateau, was once the premier place in the west to hunt the most magnificent mule deer, who did just fine with all the predators. The herds were trim, healthy and in balance with their environment. Human meddling ruined it, over and over.
With great effort over almost a century, field biologists were finally getting The Strip kind of right, then the pigs and boar came in. The damage they were doing was epic. They fouled precious waterholes with their excrement, driving out mule deer, desert bighorns and all other wildlife. They gobbled up wild turkey eggs and the pigs/boars rooting became a mega erosion problem.
The Arizona F and G Department allowed hunters from anywhere, to come anytime and hunt those super destructive boar/pigs, with no tags needed, no bag limits, no closed seasons nor any license required. Eventually it would be cowboys coming down from Utah with their horses and hounds who cleaned them out. I made two hunting trips there, one before the cowboy clean up and one after it.
On both these adventures, and many more elsewhere, one of my closest friends and best ever hunting partner would drive or fly from super cold Wyoming to meet me.
Depending on where we were entering The Strip, from, west or north, we would meet either in Mesquite, Nevada or St. George, Utah. We would check in at the BLM office, get info, then buy any last items before going the 40, even 50 miles one way into this vast dry wilderness. Leaving from Utah in early March on our first trip was not a win. We had to cross too much snowy higher country.
The daytime melted snow and mud mix was 4-6 inches deep in the ruts. It was like driving through cold, wet, thick concrete. Don, my friend was going first, going fast, breaking trail in his heavy full sized 4X4 pickup. I followed him more slowly in my smaller Toyota Land Cruiser.
The next morning both his front tires were half flat. Driving through that mix of snow and mud so fast, forced a sandy thick wet grit into the tire beads and caused slow leaks. Lucky he brought a 12 volt tire pump. He had to use it twice every day. We lost a day and a half driving these higher elevation sloppy roads. We came away feeling lucky to get out!
Later in St. George, when going back, Don had his tires taken off the rims, then cleaned off the fine sandy grit. The fellow at the garage said this happens regularly in The Strip during the late winter and early spring. Tow/vehicle service deep into the Arizona Strip can start at $1,500.
Once over the high country, we began seeing boar and sign. They were huge and looked like a line of black Volkswagens with legs, following each other on invisible trails on high grassy slopes. The next morning we hiked up.
For their size, pigs/wild boar have small feet. I have hunted tons of them on huge barley ranches. The large size of the tracks here, plus how deep in the ground they were, shocked me. These boar were really heavy and huge, dense bundles of meanness. They co-evolved with Tigers, an even match.
While exploring the dry, grassy slopes they came down from, we encountered the first of two range bulls that refused to be rounded up when the cattle were removed. When he saw us he tossed his head, pawed the ground and stood there in his cloud of dust staring boldly at us. On the way up we saw his giant tracks. “Mbogo”! In my mid-teens I was chased up a tree by our neighboring farmers breeding bull. I had deep respect for their overload of testosterone.
My rifle, a Winchester model 70 chambered in the 6.5x55 Swede felt like a pea-shooter. Don felt the same way about his .270.
It took us two days to find these boar again. They had dropped down into a lower more moist washes and were feeding in the tall jungle like tangles of prickly pear cactus. Again the tracks were jaw dropping.
As we were about to stalk into the tangle after them, Don asked me to once again tell him the two stories I heard first hand from the people who actually had real life experiences with large Russian boar.
Sue and her husband owned a 3,000 acre barley ranch where pigs/wild boar were always a problem.
When a sow boar was killed by a hunter, Sue adopted male piglet and named him Gordo, the fat one. This boar lost it’s house privileges hopping up on her bed one morning when it weighed 100 pounds. Eventually Gordo hit the 400 pound mark, grew huge sharp tusks. The neighbors would see Gordo, Sue and the little beagle that acted as Gordo’s mom when he was a piglet, all walking happily to the mailbox together.
The other story I heard first hand from a rancher who rode his horse into a chaparral thicket with the intention to shooting a big boar with his 44 mag revolver. The boar charged, came in low and with his long sharp tusks, “unzipped” his horses belly and it’s intestines just dropped out while the rancher was still in the saddle.
Don and I used an incoming storm as an excuse to leave and go west to Mesquite, Nevada. We played some golf, sat in the Moapa Hot Springs and the next day visited the Valley of Fire State Park. It has amazing rock art.
The following year Don and I met in Fairbanks, Alaska for our annual hunting/outdoor adventure together.
It was two years before we returned to The Strip, making sure we each “had enough gun” for either boar or bull.
By then the Cowboys with hounds did a great pig/boar cleanup. We saw little sign in the large valley where tracks were abundant two years ago. We again became curious about a flat top mountain. It looked impossible to climb with sheer volcanic basalt cliffs on all sides.
One day when glassing it, we saw a big black Russian boar over half way up. We grabbed our rifles and were working our way up through a high Juniper woodland, when we picked up wild boar tracks, lots of them, most small, one big set. A sow and her huge litter.
Hmm, kill the sow and the young would all die! Good for the land and native wildlife but that would be death for so many young ones. The environmental damage from these boar was still obvious everywhere. What to do? Our answer came soon.
We found the most incredible example ever of a hoofed animal mother caring for her young. This Russian boar sow, had stripped soft bark off juniper trees and created the most perfect nursery nest. It was a meticulously woven of soft bark and was a work of art. How could any animal make something so complex without hands? Boar/pigs are smart, but this nest was beyond imagination. It was about 6 feet around and a foot high with no dung in it.
The boar piglets stayed in the nursing nest till they could jump out and forage with her. My friend and I looked at the complexity, quality and the cleanliness of this nursery and decided we just could not shoot such an exemplary mother.
We gave up our hunt, hiked a bit higher on a difficult trail that might take us to the top. We were deciding whether to keep scouting new steep territory. Then we looked down!
We saw something that should have never been there in this extreme desert. We had just entered the wildlife Twilight Zone. Both of us had enough outdoor and hunting experience to know what were looking at.
My friend said it first; “Holy Shit”!
I looked down again in disbelief and said; “Yeah, that really is Holy Shit”!