Left vs Right fletching?

[Fire_9]

If you’re willing to pay that much for a broadhead, I would personally go with iron will. I wouldn’t get hung up on the single bevel thing or a 650 grain arrow being a necessity for traditional archery either. I went down that road and don’t buy it anymore. I still shoot some two blades but that’s just because I have them. I wouldn’t go buy them today.

The 150 heads I shot were hands down the loudest broadhead I’ve ever shot. Throw the shit steel and aluminum ferrule on top of it and they’re one of the most overpriced heads on the market. I know you’re looking at the forged heads but they’re still 440c steel. If you’re hung up on the single bevel stuff, I’d check out tuffhead, cutthroat, and abowyer. Ive had some abowyers break on me but it was their vented stainless heads. They make some carbon stuff now

 

[ImBillT]

If you’re willing to pay that much for a broadhead, I would personally go with iron will. I wouldn’t get hung up on the single bevel thing or a 650 grain arrow being a necessity for traditional archery either. I went down that road and don’t buy it anymore. I still shoot some two blades but that’s just because I have them. I wouldn’t go buy them today.

The 150 heads I shot were hands down the loudest broadhead I’ve ever shot. Throw the shit steel and aluminum ferrule on top of it and they’re one of the most overpriced heads on the market. I know you’re looking at the forged heads but they’re still 440c steel. If you’re hung up on the single bevel stuff, I’d check out tuffhead, cutthroat, and abowyer. Ive had some abowyers break on me but it was their vented stainless heads. They make some carbon stuff now

Your blades were loud because they were vented.

440C done properly is very good steel. I’m not convinced that GrizzlyStik is doing it properly.

Standard Cutthroats are the same hardness as the GrizzlyStik, and as far as I can tell they don’t even tell you what steel it is. If you upgrade to the S7, then you definitely get steel that offers advantages over 440C and it’s harder than the GrizzlyStiks also. Still, the fluted ferrule is just a hang up for me. It’s almost flat at the base. Milling the dip in the side of the broadhead doesn’t seem like a good idea to me either.

The Tuffheads look great. I considered them too. But again, how is it better? The stainless Tuffheads are 420HC, which is inferior to 440C, and they are only hardened to 52HRC. So it’s almost an identical design, but an inferior material and heat treatment. The heads under 400gr are thinner. How is that better? The carbon steel Tuffheads don’t appear to say what alloy they are, or the hardness.

I’ve never heard of abowyer.

I think the Grizzly heads are probably almost as good as the GrizzlyStik heads, and a LOT cheaper. If they were 1085 or 1095 and hardened to 55HRC or harder I would probably use them instead of the GrizzlyStiks.

I almost went Iron Will. They are great steel, and very hard, and a good design too. I didn’t want something with a blade screwed onto a ferrule, but from the reports of others, the Iron Will is probably not suffering from being screwed on a ferrule. I don’t think anyone shooting Iron Wills is making a bad call.

 

[Fire_9]

Your blades were loud because they were vented.

440C done properly is very good steel. I’m not convinced that GrizzlyStik is doing it properly.

Standard Cutthroats are the same hardness as the GrizzlyStik, and as far as I can tell they don’t even tell you what steel it is. If you upgrade to the S7, then you definitely get steel that offers advantages over 440C and it’s harder than the GrizzlyStiks also. Still, the fluted ferrule is just a hang up for me. It’s almost flat at the base. Milling the dip in the side of the broadhead doesn’t seem like a good idea to me either.

The Tuffheads look great. I considered them too. But again, how is it better? The stainless Tuffheads are 420HC, which is inferior to 440C, and they are only hardened to 52HRC. So it’s almost an identical design, but an inferior material and heat treatment. The heads under 400gr are thinner. How is that better? The carbon steel Tuffheads don’t appear to say what alloy they are, or the hardness.

I’ve never heard of abowyer.

I think the Grizzly heads are probably almost as good as the GrizzlyStik heads, and a LOT cheaper. If they were 1085 or 1095 and hardened to 55HRC or harder I would probably use them instead of the GrizzlyStiks.

I almost went Iron Will. They are great steel, and very hard, and a good design too. I didn’t want something with a blade screwed onto a ferrule, but from the reports of others, the Iron Will is probably not suffering from being screwed on a ferrule. I don’t think anyone shooting Iron Wills is making a bad call.

You’re correct on the vents causing the noise. I’ve sworn off vented heads moving forward

It looks like the cutthroats are made from 41L40 but will be offered in S7 soon. The tuffhead evolutions are S7 as well. Valkyrie would be another one that I believe are being made from S7.

So what’s the concern with the cutthroat ferrule? Strength? Same question with the iron will? Are you worried about strength on any head that is not one machined piece?

What are you planning to hunt with these?

 

[ImBillT]

You’re correct on the vents causing the noise. I’ve sworn off vented heads moving forward

It looks like the cutthroats are made from 41L40 but will be offered in S7 soon. The tuffhead evolutions are S7 as well. Valkyrie would be another one that I believe are being made from S7.

So what’s the concern with the cutthroat ferrule? Strength? Same question with the iron will? Are you worried about strength on any head that is not one machined piece?

What are you planning to hunt with these?

My “concern” with the fluted ferrule is not super important, but it is that the base of the ferrule will reduce penetration. Certainly those using them in the field are getting plenty of penetration with the cutthroats, but they would certainly get more if they had left it smooth. Maybe 1%, maybe 10%, I don’t know. Why on earth would you do that to the broadhead? The only “advantage” to fluting the ferrule that I can think of is weight reduction, so why do it on the heavier broadheads that are larger? The same goes for machining the recess in the back side of each blade. It may not make as much noise as a vent that goes completely through, but it still has to add noise, and with no obvious benefit other than weight reduction. Cutthroat’s website doesn’t say what steel they use, but they are hardened to 55HRC, just like the GrizzlyStik 315s. I can see how 4140 would have some advantages over 440C, but 41L40 makes that a fair bit more questionable. The addition of lead for easier machine reduces toughness, and it seems may be a bit of a stretch for a target hardness in the leaded version. The screw-in Cutthroats are also thinner than the GrizzlyStik. So again, what makes the Cutthroat a better broadhead than the GrizzlyStik? If you’re just saying “hey, there are cheaper broadheads out there than will kill, and can be reused, and are similar” then I have to agree. But your “hard pass” based on your experience with that company’s bottom of the line broadhead from a different steel and of an inferior design just doesn’t seem like great logic. ALSO, I somehow missed the glue-on cutthroats. The 190 glue-on eliminates my issue with the ferrule, AND is about the same thickness as the GrizzlyStik, AND win a 125gr screw-in insert would be the same weight. Seems like a very good option that I had been missing. I wish they hadn’t milled the recess in one face of the blades, but it looks like a pretty decent choice, ESPECIALLY in S7! I would say that would put it above the GrizzlyStik in my preference due to the increased hardness.

What’s your problem with 440C? It wouldn’t be my choice, but it’s not a terrible steel.

If Valkyrie offered a two-blade that I was aware of, I sure might have gone that direction. If I was shooting more bow I might consider a three-blade.

With the Iron Will, yes I pretty much just wish the blade wasn’t screwed onto the ferrule. That lost my interest. It may not be a problem.

The Tuffhead Evolution series doesn’t say(or I didn’t find) how hard they are hardened to. Seems important when you’re charging $116/3 and using an expensive steel. Also, they were a little shorter than I wanted. The GrizzlyStik Ashby is a little longer than I wanted. I almost bought the Alaskans instead. I paid $109/3 for the GrizzlyStiks.

I think that every broadhead in this post is a good choice, as well as a few others. I think the regular Tuffhead is a good choice, the Grizzlys are a good choice and they’re cheap. I think a lot of other broadheads are good enough, and cheap. I also think that every broadhead in this post has at least one thing I would change about it, usually more. In S7, the only things I would change about the Cutthroat glue-on is the machined recess, and I would make it a little longer. For the GrizzlyStik Ashby, I would make it a little SHORTER, use a different steel, and make it a little harder. If Grizzly was using 1085 or 1095 instead of 1075, and hardened to 55+, I would be shooting them instead of any of the above, and I’d probably be paying less than $90/6. I don’t think you’re naming heads that aren’t going to work well, but I don’t understand your beef with the ones that I chose.

This year I’ll hopefully be shooting deer and hogs, but I plan on missing and want to reuse the broadheads, so that cut my choices a little. I’ll likely hunt elk with them at some point, and frankly, once I get things setup, I don’t want to mess with them much in the future. Nor do I want to get a different velocity. I plan to stick to instinctive shooting, so if I change something next year I don’t want it to throw me off much. Luckily, the Grizzly, the Tuffhead, and the Cutthroat can all be had right in the 310-315gr range, so it’s not like going with the GrizzlyStik kept me from switching to those at some point in the future.

 

[Fire_9]

My “concern” with the fluted ferrule is not super important, but it is that the base of the ferrule will reduce penetration. Certainly those using them in the field are getting plenty of penetration with the cutthroats, but they would certainly get more if they had left it smooth. Maybe 1%, maybe 10%, I don’t know. Why on earth would you do that to the broadhead? The only “advantage” to fluting the ferrule that I can think of is weight reduction, so why do it on the heavier broadheads that are larger? The same goes for machining the recess in the back side of each blade. It may not make as much noise as a vent that goes completely through, but it still has to add noise, and with no obvious benefit other than weight reduction. Cutthroat’s website doesn’t say what steel they use, but they are hardened to 55HRC, just like the GrizzlyStik 315s. I can see how 4140 would have some advantages over 440C, but 41L40 makes that a fair bit more questionable. The addition of lead for easier machine reduces toughness, and it seems may be a bit of a stretch for a target hardness in the leaded version. The screw-in Cutthroats are also thinner than the GrizzlyStik. So again, what makes the Cutthroat a better broadhead than the GrizzlyStik? If you’re just saying “hey, there are cheaper broadheads out there than will kill, and can be reused, and are similar” then I have to agree. But your “hard pass” based on your experience with that company’s bottom of the line broadhead from a different steel and of an inferior design just doesn’t seem like great logic. ALSO, I somehow missed the glue-on cutthroats. The 190 glue-on eliminates my issue with the ferrule, AND is about the same thickness as the GrizzlyStik, AND win a 125gr screw-in insert would be the same weight. Seems like a very good option that I had been missing. I wish they hadn’t milled the recess in one face of the blades, but it looks like a pretty decent choice, ESPECIALLY in S7! I would say that would put it above the GrizzlyStik in my preference due to the increased hardness.

What’s your problem with 440C? It wouldn’t be my choice, but it’s not a terrible steel.

If Valkyrie offered a two-blade that I was aware of, I sure might have gone that direction. If I was shooting more bow I might consider a three-blade.

With the Iron Will, yes I pretty much just wish the blade wasn’t screwed onto the ferrule. That lost my interest. It may not be a problem.

The Tuffhead Evolution series doesn’t say(or I didn’t find) how hard they are hardened to. Seems important when you’re charging $116/3 and using an expensive steel. Also, they were a little shorter than I wanted. The GrizzlyStik Ashby is a little longer than I wanted. I almost bought the Alaskans instead. I paid $109/3 for the GrizzlyStiks.

I think that every broadhead in this post is a good choice, as well as a few others. I think the regular Tuffhead is a good choice, the Grizzlys are a good choice and they’re cheap. I think a lot of other broadheads are good enough, and cheap. I also think that every broadhead in this post has at least one thing I would change about it, usually more. In S7, the only things I would change about the Cutthroat glue-on is the machined recess, and I would make it a little longer. For the GrizzlyStik Ashby, I would make it a little SHORTER, use a different steel, and make it a little harder. If Grizzly was using 1085 or 1095 instead of 1075, and hardened to 55+, I would be shooting them instead of any of the above, and I’d probably be paying less than $90/6. I don’t think you’re naming heads that aren’t going to work well, but I don’t understand your beef with the ones that I chose.

This year I’ll hopefully be shooting deer and hogs, but I plan on missing and want to reuse the broadheads, so that cut my choices a little. I’ll likely hunt elk with them at some point, and frankly, once I get things setup, I don’t want to mess with them much in the future. Nor do I want to get a different velocity. I plan to stick to instinctive shooting, so if I change something next year I don’t want it to throw me off much. Luckily, the Grizzly, the Tuffhead, and the Cutthroat can all be had right in the 310-315gr range, so it’s not like going with the GrizzlyStik kept me from switching to those at some point in the future.

My biggest beef with the grizzlystik stuff is that it’s waaaaay overpriced. If they were priced about half of what they are, I could maybe get onboard with it. I have a feeling they will be brittle though. The broadhead of theirs that I tried is in an entirely different realm than what you’re looking at so I may be off with my opinions though.

 

[longbow51]

Bill, you're way overthinking this. Just go buy a used recurve/longbow, use the arrows the maker recommends, and kill animals. Use Zwickeys, Bear Razorheads, thousands of animals killed. If you have a good job (and I'm guessing you're an engineer) just go to Mixon, and get a Black Widow, or Montana, and get a Stykbow, or any other great longbow/recurve.

But, if building is your quest, carry on.

 

[Farmerj]

Building a bow is an experience…

You can see the hitch in the upper bow where it eventually failed about 900 shots (estimated) later. By August this year (this was in 2011) the bow failed. You could feel the limb loose the strength.

These are the actual first shots ever with the bow. The bow, arrows and string were all made by myself. The string was made from actual sinew.

Tillered out at 73lbs

 

[ImBillT]

Bill, you're way overthinking this. Just go buy a used recurve/longbow, use the arrows the maker recommends, and kill animals. Use Zwickeys, Bear Razorheads, thousands of animals killed. If you have a good job (and I'm guessing you're an engineer) just go to Mixon, and get a Black Widow, or Montana, and get a Stykbow, or any other great longbow/recurve.

But, if building is your quest, carry on.

If I wanted to buy one, I would have. That said, I probably should have, because I’m running out of time pretty quickly, and can’t get anything done with a 1yr old and 3yr old running around.

I’m not an engineer. I changed majors to mechanical engineering after two years, and dropped to part time by my third year because I couldn’t work and handle full time. In my eighth year I was getting married and one of us needed a real job. I dropped out and took a job in the oil field that was no job for a married person. Now I’m a one man lawn maintenance operation, and make a little less than my wife who is an elementary school teacher. Whoo hoo! I should do something else, but I like my flexibility in the winter too much. I was three part time semesters from finishing in mechanical engineering. I’ve forgot most of it. I remember enough that I often think “I would do that differently. There could be something I’m missing”.

 

[iHunt]

I just asked this same question to my most accomplished archer friend. I was asking if I needed to start with checking the natural rotation of my bare shafts - then matching both fletching and bevel to that.

He said that while it would make a *very small* improvement to match your fletching to your bare shaft direction - its not as big of deal and that he always fletches a right hand twist so that his tips are tightened upon impact instead of loosened. And thus, also gets right hand bevel broadheads if he is shooting single bevel.

Just my experience with the same question!

Also interested in all the GrizzlyStik talk as I just switched to GRizzly Stik 200grs for this elk season!