Info request on Inherited Rem Model 11 16-gauge

[trb]

Hi all,

I was hoping some folks more knowledgeable than myself could educate me on a recently inherited shotgun given to me by my uncle. It is a 16 gauge Remington Model 11 semi-automatic shotgun with a fixed adjustable choke. The serial number is 1593510 under the Remington logo and a drawing of a mallard in flight. I have attached a few pictures. I am not quite sure how old it is and I am having trouble deciphering Remington's serial code system. It looks its age, but it seems to be in pretty good shape.

I don't have any experience with semi automatic shotguns, I already have another shotgun I like, and it was given to me more as a clearing-of-the-closet than a gift, so sentimentality isn't really an issue. I just need some more info before deciding whether I should appreciate this shotgun more and hang on to it, actually hunt with it, or just sell it.

Thanks in advance for any input!

 

[Western Traveler1]

Compared to a semi-auto shotgun of today, those guns feel really different. Like a heavy mechanical action rather than the smooth actions of today. Like the Browning A5 the barrel slides back on recoil. I shot my fathers for old time sake and can’t see myself parting with it but there is a bond I shared as a small boy hunting with him. Even without that connection I struggle getting rid of any old guns. They become safe queens.

 

[OntarioHunter]

My dad's shotgun was a twelve gauge Model 11 with a similar Polychoke. According to the Remington factory historian I spoke to years ago, Polychokes were installed at the factory and actually an improvement. Remington used poor steel in those barrels and many split at the end. I shoot the almost identical Browning A5 for everything: geese, ducks, grouse, pheasants, trap, skeet, and sporting clays. A couple thousand rounds a year. Great gun. However both the A5 and Model 11 had a design flaw that you need to be aware of. Actually two flaws, and both found in the wood. As mentioned above, they utilize "long recoil" action where the barrel slides back to eject the empty hull. A ring attached to the barrel slides over the magazine tube and acts as a guide keeping it in line with the receiver during cycling. This ring butts against the fore end and often causes damage to the wood after a lot of shooting ... or the gun being shot without the friction brake between the barrel ring and barrel spring surrounding the magazine tube. To check for a damaged fore end, place the butt on the floor, push down on the muzzle with your palm till barrel starts to move, and with other hand unscrew the magazine cap. Remove the fore end and look inside the barrel trough. See where the barrel ring butts against the wood. If wood is smashed then that gun has been shot a lot and/or improperly cared for (friction brake removed). If the smashed area shows signs of cracking you should get it to a gunsmith for reinforcement or the fore end will break and replacements are getting hard to find (manufacture ceased in 1949).

The butt stock design is also problematic. The tang screw that holds it onto receiver goes right through the weakest part of the stock. The wood has a propensity to crack at that point. Look for this.

I changed my gun to synthetic because I shoot a lot (it went through one set of wood since I owned it and that set was not original so presumably the factory wood also broke down). The aftermarket plastic stock set I have is no longer being made ... which is just as well. Terrible fit that required a LOT of adjustment. Anyway, though the A5 and Model 11 look identical, they are not. I am quite certain A5 wood will not fit Model 11. In fact Browning wood from 1970s will not fit a Browning receiver from 1961. So, you better take care of that old gun's wood.

 

[OntarioHunter]

Damn shame someone went at that Polychoke with a pair of pliers and chewed it up. Proper cleaning was probably all it needed to aleviate binding up. Last I knew the Polychoke was being made again. You might consider getting another one put on it. A gunsmith might even have an old one laying around. There's a lot of debate about how well they pattern ... or don't. But most Model 11s that didn't have Polychoke had fixed full choke and those didn't hold up even to lead shot. Do not shoot steel in that barrel no matter what choke setting is selected. I don't think it can take the pressure.

 

[mdhunter]

My grandfather gave me several shotguns after he passed including a Remington model 11 with a poly choke. I hunted with him a bunch as a kid and never saw it used. Perhaps we could both concluded it was functional but ——— (insert your own adjective here) so I kept the rest but parted ways with it. Maybe you could remove the poly and bring it back to it’s glory?

 

[marksjeep]

The friction rings noted above are adjustable to provide more/less friction depending on the load being shot.

 

[Brandon270]

My grandfather had one in 12 gauge but I don't think it had the engraving on it. It was used as the spare dove gun if a visiting family member came to the annual dove hunt without a shotgun or theirs had problems. It's a very unique gun with how the barrel slides back and the adjustable choke but I remember as a kid watching my uncle often standing in the dove field with the buttstock on the ground holding the barrel and working the action to get an empty out. Maybe it never got cleaned right but it seemed to hang up a lot.

 

[OntarioHunter]

My grandfather gave me several shotguns after he passed including a Remington model 11 with a poly choke. I hunted with him a bunch as a kid and never saw it used. Perhaps we could both concluded it was functional but ——— (insert your own adjective here) so I kept the rest but parted ways with it. Maybe you could remove the poly and bring it back to it’s glory?

The Polychoke was installed at the factory. It is original equipment. He is better off leaving it on there. According to Reminton factory historian, barrels without them tended to split due to poor steel.

 

[OntarioHunter]

The friction rings noted above are adjustable to provide more/less friction depending on the load being shot.

Yes, he can download instructions re how to adjust them. Some of the original Model 11 friction brake rings were aluminum and tended to wear out quickly. He should look at the grooves to see how much wear has taken place. If the grooves have disappeared or near disappeared it is time to replace. I believe a bronze friction brake for Browning A5 will work and those replacements are easily obtained.

 

[OntarioHunter]

My grandfather had one in 12 gauge but I don't think it had the engraving on it. It was used as the spare dove gun if a visiting family member came to the annual dove hunt without a shotgun or theirs had problems. It's a very unique gun with how the barrel slides back and the adjustable choke but I remember as a kid watching my uncle often standing in the dove field with the buttstock on the ground holding the barrel and working the action to get an empty out. Maybe it never got cleaned right but it seemed to hang up a lot.

This design was the world's first semi auto shotgun. Essentially the same long recoil design was used in Browning's military machine guns.

Your uncle probably did not have the friction ring/brake set for light loads an/or the gun was dirty. I recently had a young fella bring me an early Browning 16 gauge he bought very cheap but wouldn't cycle. I totally disassembled it (requires certification in brain surgery) and discovered this 1930s gun still had petrified shipping grease in the action spring/plunger inside the butt stock. These guns were made in Belgium and shipped overseas via boat so they were doused in grease to protect from saltwater corrosion. Gun dealers rarely had the expertise to clean them completely before putting them on the shelf. It had obviously never seen much use. Functions flawlessly now.

 

[Brandon270]

This design was the world's first semi auto shotgun. Essentially the same long recoil design was used in Browning's military machine guns.

Your uncle probably did not have the friction ring/brake set for light loads an/or the gun was dirty. I recently had a young fella bring me an early Browning 16 gauge he bought very cheap but wouldn't cycle. I totally disassembled it (requires certification in brain surgery) and discovered this 1930s gun still had petrified shipping grease in the action spring/plunger inside the butt stock. These guns were made in Belgium and shipped overseas via boat so they were doused in grease to protect from saltwater corrosion. Gun dealers rarely had the expertise to clean them completely before putting them on the shelf. It had obviously never seen much use. Functions flawlessly now.

It was definitely neglected so it wouldn't surprise me that is wasn't cleaned or set properly.

 

[OntarioHunter]

I thought I mentioned this but can't find it now. The outside of magazine tube should be lubricated with liberal gun oil. For hunting in very cold weather I have been advised to use kerosene but so far haven't had any problems using 3-in1 oil ... but I'm usually using heavy loads that time of year. Switching to light load setting usually takes care of any cycling issues of those loads in cold weather ... and several layers of clothing takes care of increased recoil.

 

[OntarioHunter]

And a last tip for resolving potential cycling issues with Browning A5 or Remington Model 11. For light loads the manual says to flip over the steel compression ring for friction brake and move it to bottom of the magazine tube next to the receiver. Don't do that. Flip the ring over and leave it below the friction brake. If the ring is moved to bottom of magazine tube the friction brake can get pinched between the barrel spring and magazine tube ... and gun will not cycle properly. Simply flipping over the compression ring so beveled side is towards the barrel spring will eliminate half the braking capability of friction brake, which is desirable with light loads, while also preventing the friction brake from getting caught in the barrel spring. I have no idea why Browning wants the steel ring moved to the bottom next to the receiver. I shoot this gun a LOT and doing that has caused me grief. Shooting light loads requires precise adjustment of the friction brake for consistent behaviour. Potential for the brake getting hung up is not consistency.

 

[trb]

And a list tip for resolving potential cycling issues with Browning A5 or Remington Model 11. For light loads the manual says to flip over the steel compression ring for friction brake and move it to bottom of the magazine tube next to the receiver. Don't do that. Flip the ring over and leave it below the friction brake. If the ring is moved to bottom of magazine tube the friction brake can get pinched between the barrel spring and magazine tube ... and gun will not cycle properly. Simply flipping over the compression ring so beveled side is towards the barrel spring will eliminate half the braking capability of friction brake, which is desirable with light loads, while also preventing the friction brake from getting caught in the barrel spring. I have no idea why Browning wants the steel ring moved to the bottom next to the receiver. I shoot this gun a LOT and doing that has caused me grief. Shooting light loads requires precise adjustment of the friction brake for consistent behaviour. Potential for the brake getting hung up is not consistency.

Wow. I am blown away by the amount of info you have written up here. Very much appreciate your time and thought on this. I need to read over it more carefully and spend some time with the shotgun and I will update with what I decide to do. Sounds like it's probably not worth selling...can't imagine I'd get more than $200, but it could be an interesting project to restore and mess around with.