First Muzzleloader

[npaden]

Okay, I just pulled the plug today on my first muzzleloader. Did a little research, but got a bit lost with all the different options and reviews and "Ford, Chevy, Toyota" talk on the different brands.

Ended up buying a Traditions Vortek LDR Ultralight locally for $380 + sales tax which seemed to be a pretty good deal. Used some a Bass Pro Shop gift card I'd been sitting on for a couple years almost and picked up one of the Nikon Inline XR scopes with the gimicy 300 BDC reticle to put on top of it.

About to order this set of base/rings - http://muzzle-loaders.com/optics/sights/durasight-universal-scope-mounts.php

The 2 piece setups are better than the 1 piece bases right?

Probably stick this sling on it - http://www.muzzle-loaders.com/accessories/slings/quake/quake-claw-contour-sling-camo-53001-5.php

Reading everything I'm probably going to buy some Blackhorn 209 powder if I can find it locally and whatever 209 primers they have for sale locally. If I can't find the Blackhorn powder locally I'll probably try the 777 powder.

I need to buy some breech grease, barrel solvent, bore swap, patches, etc. The beginner kit that CVA has sounds good but it seems like it has stuff that I wouldn't actually need.

Do I need special muzzleloader barrel solvent or can I just use the solvent from my regular gun cleaning kit?

Here's what's in the kit for $50 - $60 depending on where you buy it.

ACCESSORY OUTFIT CONTENTS QTY
PowerBelt .295 Grain Hollow-point Bullets 16
Hollow Point Bullet Starter 1
PowerBelt SpeedClip loader 1
Breech Plug Anti-Seize Stick 2 oz.
Barrel Blaster Solvent 4 oz.
Bore Cleaning Brush 1
Large Breech Brush 1
Bullet Starter Attachments 8 (various shapes)
Powerbelt Speedclip Loader 3 clear tubes
Small Breech Brush 1
Cleaning Patches 100
Blackpowder 101 DVD

Reading a little here it seems that folks are pretty happy with the no excuses bullets, if I go with them and Blackhorn Powder what else do I need?

Complete newbie here, hoping to get everything in by next weekend and try a few shots.

I have a New Mexico Mule Deer hunt in late October that I hopefully will get to try it out on. I have a New Mexico Rifle Elk tag that same week and won't be going after deer unless I tag out early on elk and won't be going on either of those hunts unless I've already shot my Wyoming mountain goat.

Would like to get stuff ordered this weekend so I might be here by the end of next week.

Thanks in advance for any advice or input.

Nathan

 

[npaden]

Okay, I can use Sabots in New Mexico so I guess the No Excuses bullets are for states that don't allow Sabots?

 

[JohnCushman]

Why not use the same bullets everywhere as long as your gun likes them?

 

[spook12]

Why not use the same bullets everywhere as long as your gun likes them?

I agree with John. Work up a load that's legal in all the States you hunt in and stick with it . I didn't checkout the link for the bases,but I would use one that is easily detached so that it's easy to get legal for those States that limit glass.

 

[JohnCushman]

I agree with John. Work up a load that's legal in all the States you hunt in and stick with it . I didn't checkout the link for the bases,but I would use one that is easily detached so that it's easy to get legal for those States that limit glass.

That's why I bought 2 inlines... One for Colorado with no scope and one for everywhere else with a scope

 

[spook12]

That's why I bought 2 inlines...

Bragger.


I do the same with my archery gear. It's easier to set up legal for the most restrictive State that I plan to hunt and stick with that setup all year.

 

[npaden]

Okay, made a run to our new Cabela's Outpost and think I pretty much got everything I need.

Here's a picture of everything together except the Nikon Inline XR scope that should come in on Monday or Tuesday.

Thoughts on the stuff I bought. That powder measure says it goes up to 120 so that should be good. Is this going to be accurate enough or do I need to be trying to find a digital scale to weigh it?

I think I'm settled on the Hornady SST 300 grain sabots for New Mexico hunting which is the only thing I've applied for. I think they would be good for deer and elk.

My thoughts on the little rapid reloading tubes is that I will just put powder in them and keep the bullets separate. The ones that fit both the bullet and the powder seemed huge. Does this sound reasonable?

On the bore swab, do you use it to get the worst out then switch to patches? How do you clean the bore swab once you get it dirty?

Do I need a bristle brush or anything to get around the breech area? Some of the starter kits had that.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Nathan

 

[Rooster52]

I would not use the Triple 7 primers with Blackhorn powder.Most people that I know using Blackhorn powder shoot a CCI magnum primer.

 

[Jwill]

I will second the quick detach bases recommendation. Two other things, I'm not a fan of the ML SST's from a penetration standpoint, had a couple that didn't pass through on whitetail does, so sparse to no blood trails. I now use a hp solid copper barnes pistol bullet w/ the sabots. Also, pick up a T-handle that's compatible with your ramrod before you shoot. Many times I have been cleaning between shots and got the ramrod stuck, the T-handle gives you enough leverage to pull the ramrod out without having to take gun apart. Anyhow, good luck and hope you fill a bunch of tags this fall!

 

[npaden]

Are the CCI Magnum Primers somewhere else in the reloading supplies or something? They just had 2 options, these and some other muzzleloader specific primer. Don't remember Remington or something.

I'll get one of the T handles, I didn't realize the loader wasn't long enough if something got stuck in the barrel.

I watched a few beginner videos and some said something about using some type of bore butter to keep the bore from getting rusted between shots.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[F250]

Welcome to the world of muzzle loader hunting ! I have been using Blackhorn 209 for several years. Just use Hoppes #9 bore solvent to clean the bore. The load my wife and I have been using : 95 gr. Blackhorn 209, Winchester 209 primer (do not use primers advertised as muzzle loader primers), 300 gr. Thompson Ctr. Shockwave bullets (similar to the SST) with Super Glide sabots. We are getting great accuracy, and bullet performance. We are seeing complete pass through on 200 lb. Whitetail bucks, leaving behind wound channels proving a good "mushroom" of the bullet. Have fun !!

 

[ccc23454]

first; muzzleloading powder is based on volume not weight so no need for that electric scale. everyone has what they like, I have been muzzy hunting nearly 20 years and have tried many things and had to find what works for me. with that said I have experimented with many different powder/bullets combination and always end up back at pryrodex and 295powerbelts. I have found many of the "clean" powders have accuracy issues (just my opinion, not trying to start battle). as far as the bullets, powerbelts are nice and save you some extra gadgets (bullet starters and special tips) because they start by hand and just use your ramrod after that. best overall advice I can offer is simple:keep it clean and keep it dry

 

[1_pointer]

Okay, made a run to our new Cabela's Outpost and think I pretty much got everything I need.

Here's a picture of everything together except the Nikon Inline XR scope that should come in on Monday or Tuesday.

Thoughts on the stuff I bought. That powder measure says it goes up to 120 so that should be good. Is this going to be accurate enough or do I need to be trying to find a digital scale to weigh it?

I think I'm settled on the Hornady SST 300 grain sabots for New Mexico hunting which is the only thing I've applied for. I think they would be good for deer and elk.

My thoughts on the little rapid reloading tubes is that I will just put powder in them and keep the bullets separate. The ones that fit both the bullet and the powder seemed huge. Does this sound reasonable?

On the bore swab, do you use it to get the worst out then switch to patches? How do you clean the bore swab once you get it dirty?

Do I need a bristle brush or anything to get around the breech area? Some of the starter kits had that.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Nathan

Unless I'm mistaken on BH209, but nearly all blackpowder is measured by VOLUME, not WEIGHT. So no worries on the accuracy of the measure. If they'll fit, I'd keep my powder and bullets in the same tube. When I need one I'll need the other so I figure it's best to keep them together. I keep a couple in my pack and one in my breast pocket. Though they "speed up" a reload, it's still pretty slow. I've never found the need for a bore swab, I just use a jag and patches. For a quick wipe between shots at the range I use Windex. You don't have to buy a special brush, but do keep the threads for the breech plug clean and lubed. A touch of anti seize before you put it in goes a long way. I clean my with a small wire brush.

 

[npaden]

Thanks for the input and information.

Reading through the BH209 information again it specifically says that you don't need to lube the breech plug if you are using BH209. Should I do it anyway to be safe?

My scope is taking longer to arrive than I thought, supposed to be here tomorrow so hopefully I'll be firing it on Friday.

 

[Dave N]

ALWAYS lube the breech plug threads.

 

[jrabq]

I also strongly recommend the CCI magnum primers with BH209, but I'm also having a hard time getting restocked, down to about 20.

 

[Bill Zent]

Anti seize on both breech plug and nipple makes them easy to remove!

 

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

incorrect primers & incorrect bore cleaning solvent.

Winchester W209, Federal 209a, CCI Magnum primers are what you will need otherwise you may experience hang fires/ no fires.

Cleaning solvents, BH209 uses the same stuff you'd use on a centerfire, I personally love birchwood casey 2 in 1 bore scrubber.

You do not need lube on the breech plug threads, I shoot the Traditions LDR and just used a little lithium grease on the breech plugs rubber O ring to prevent it from going flat.

 

[roadhunter]

Blackhorn recommends regular 209 shotgun primers. I've read articles that claim you want a "magnum" primer and others that said they prefer the "fiocchi"(sp?) primers. Something about pushing the load before the powder ignites. here is the article.
http://blog.cva.com/muzzleloader-cva-accura/

On the bore solvent the quick patches are nice but I also use the foam pretty regularly. Just fill the barrel and come back in an hour and it all comes out easily. I picked up a bottle at wal mart the other day.

I also shoot the 300 gran sabots from Hornady. They fly better for me than the powerbelts.

I lube the breech plug and it always comes out easy.

In hindsight if you are really serious about muzzle loading the newer smokeless powder guns are much easier, accurate, cleaner, etc.... I wish I had picked up a Savage before the prices skyrocketed to over a grand.

 

[npaden]

I picked up some Winchester W209 primers yesterday. Couldn't find any of the CCI Magnum primers at any of the usual suspect places in town.

Returned the Triple 7 primers and the breech lube to Cabelas. Guess maybe I should return the Number 13 bore cleaner too and just use my Hoppes stuff that I use to clean my regular rifles.

I've read about using teflon tape instead of grease on the breech plug. I might do that, although from what I've read with the Blackhorn you really don't need to.

I'm not really serious about muzzleloading yet. I've never even fired one actually. There is a chance that I might not even go on the hunt that I drew because it conflicts with a rifle elk hunt so this is just a backup option if I tag out quick on my elk hunt.