First bird dog (GSP)

The main thing at 12 weeks is just to bond up with the pup. No pressure! I second the Rick Smith silent command system. Just let the pup be a pup, run and chase birds, whatever, the pressure can come later. Most of all be careful how you introduce your pup to gunfire! Don't take him/her to the shooting range. Enjoy your GSP you won't be disappointed.
 
Picked up a dummy and some scent. Going play around with that and see how she does.

I appreciate all the tips and suggestions!
 
It sounds like your set on the Garmin and I'd go that route if your getting a GPS collar.

Otherwise, I run the upland sportdog with the beeper. It has a locate button so you can hit that and as long as you're in range you'll know where the dog is. It also has the run mode, so when they go on point it starts beeping (or whatever sound you select) I really like that in thick cover cause you know when the dog is on point. If you have a big running dog, the GPS would be a nice feature.

Sportdog has also had awesome customer service every time I've dealt with them.

As far as an electricity scared dog, that's when you know the person trained them wrong or doesn't have an understanding how e collars are supposed to work. The early days of e collars definitely were shock collars, they didn't have much for settings and I think that's where the bad rap comes from. When you take out your e collar if your dog isn't freaking out with excitement to put it on, your doing it wrong.

You don't crank it to 10 and shock that heck out of them. You use the first setting that the dog reacts to. If they don't notice level 1, and you try level 2 and they flick their ear or whatever, that's what you start with. They also come with a vibrate or little beep you can use instead, my female reacts more strongly to the small beep than she does the first two settings of electricity. I'm willing to admit that I'm not a world class trainer, heck not even a trainer, and don't have the best listening dogs, guess what, most people don't, but when I need them to come low level stimulation from the collar, electricity or sound, works great for me. I'd rather give the command "here" with that low level stimulation and have the dog come than yell at the top of my lungs multiple times watching my dog run off. Does it make up for my shortcomings as a "trainer" heck yeah it does and I'm ok with that and my dogs dang near run me over when I get the collar out cause they know they're going to have some fun.
 
Thanks!

In the few weeks I’ve had her. I think I’ve seen her point once or twice when we’ve been out in the fields walking. Curious as to what others have experienced time frame for pointing with their puppy?
 
Thanks!

In the few weeks I’ve had her. I think I’ve seen her point once or twice when we’ve been out in the fields walking. Curious as to what others have experienced time frame for pointing with their puppy?
All breeds and dogs are different. I've seen GSPs and GWPs hold some rock solid points by as early as 4 months. On the other side for example, my griff didn't really point much until around 9 months but they as a breed typically mature a little slower than others.
 
Thanks!

In the few weeks I’ve had her. I think I’ve seen her point once or twice when we’ve been out in the fields walking. Curious as to what others have experienced time frame for pointing with their puppy?


In all honesty, it really means nothing in the grand scheme of things. Your pup will likely go through phases where she doesn’t point worth crap, then she’ll start again. At seven months of age my DD was flushing birds like a lab. Three weeks later he was pointing like an all star.

In my observation it’s something dog owners like to show pictures of and brag about, but means little in the bigger picture.
 
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@Redside was spot on. Use the lowest level of press you can to get the dog to comply with your command. Just like any other means of applying pressure.

My dog gets ALL sorts of excited when his e-collars come out.
 
A few other random thoughts:

1) Keep your training sessions short and frequent.
2) Never miss an opportunity to end training on a good note.
3) Be able to read your dog in how they avoid pressure and don't accept it (i.e. your dog lays down during force fetch)
4) Anticipate rough spots here and there, especially during the adolescent years and be consistent and fair throughout
5) Don't just do the same training drills every day. Mix them up and look for ways to incorporate several skills/concepts at the same time
6) Sometimes taking a step backwards is what you need in order to move forwards
7) Different trainers have different methods, but the underlying principles are usually the same. Make sure you are consistent in your methodology.

I'm not an expert by any means. However, I've been fortunate to meet and become friends with some great folks who are breeders, judges, and excellent trainers. They have definitely helped me improve immensely as a trainer and dog handler.
 
A few other random thoughts:
...
6) Sometimes taking a step backwards is what you need in order to move forwards
...

Big one right there.
If your pup is like 99% of them, there will be certain days when nothing will go right. When that happens, this is the approach I take with my dog. We drop what we were working on and just work on basics. Turn the day into just a recap of sit, stay, heel, a little fetch, etc. It probably sounds silly, but I feel like it is a good way to wash your hands of a bad day and get back to a good baseline for next time.
 
You're definitely off on the right foot. I started with Wolters Gun Dog.... worthless book. by like page 15 and 12 weeks my dog was supposed to be saying "indefinitely", it was ridiculous.
 
—Update—

We've been working on obedience over the last few months. Last week we dropped her off with a dog trainer who specializes in the HuntSmith method. She’ll be there for the next 5 weeks. We recently received some pictures from her first day in the field.
 

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