Do i need this extra scope leveling kit?

[johnnybow]

I decided I am going to mount my own scopes from here on out. Having never mounted a scope before I decided to start with the wheeler engineering kit. I did not realize it came with levels and I ordered a separate level kit. My question is do I need a separate leveling kit or will the basic levels in The wheeler kit do a good job? Thanks

 

[howl]

If you've already got an accurate level, some twine and something small and dense, you've got what you need. You have to fine tune at the range by running a series of vertical adjustments anyhow.

The reason so many different types of tools for that job are sold is because people have varying success with them, dependent in part on themselves. It's convenience that you buy. What is convenient depends on you.

I'm a cheapskate. So, I just do the plumb bob, level routine and verify on target.

 

[bowhuntmontana]

The one kit will work and you don't need additional levels. I use that Wheeler kit and the twine and plumb bob and it works well for me. Saw something from Vortex the other day where they shine a light back through the scope. Thought that was pretty slick too.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

You don’t need any levels to mount a scope.

 

[nhenry]

You don’t need any levels to mount a scope.

Elaborate on this because some people will be confused

 

[WapitiBob]

Elaborate on this because some people will be confused

Stick the rifle in a vise, turn out the lights and shine a flashlight thru the scope. Line up the vertical crosshair “shadow” with a plumb bob line across the room and you’re good. Add a level to the scope tube so you have a visual reference showing when the reticle is plumb with gravity.
Where the rifle is under the scope doesn’t mean jack as long as the level is showing level when you shoot; the rifle cant will always be the same.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

Elaborate on this because some people will be confused
View attachment 371359

@WapitiBob hit it but generally people would be better off if they focused on getting their hardware properly degreased, torqued, loctited with decent rings that are aligned with each other than all the silly leveling gizmos. Having a scope with a scope level mounted true to the reticle that the shooter uses when shooting makes a difference. If a shooter isn’t going to use a level on the scope when shooting, doing anything more than eyeballing it as plumb with bore while mounting is a waste of time.

Some other recent threads about leveling scopes that touch on it:

Scope looks canted

I just got my new nx8 2.5-20 scope in. I installed it on the rifle and to me it looks canted. I am using an unknown munitions bubble level on the rail, while it was level I leveled the reticle to a “plumb bob” string. Theoretically this should be perfectly level but when I level the bubble it...

www.hunttalk.com

Action Leveling

No doubt the topic of scope leveling has come up many times, often including mention of the gadgets that are available to make it easier. But IMHO, the greater challenge is finding the best way and tool to level the action when mounting a new optic. After all, if the action isn't level, what...

www.hunttalk.com

 

[shannerdrake]

I decided I am going to mount my own scopes from here on out. Having never mounted a scope before I decided to start with the wheeler engineering kit. I did not realize it came with levels and I ordered a separate level kit. My question is do I need a separate leveling kit or will the basic levels in The wheeler kit do a good job? Thanks

I have 3 sets of Wheeler levels and I can set them on the same surface and I get 6 different readings.

I basically use them all when I mount a scope and take the average…..

An extra set isn’t a bad thing.

 

[Fire_9]

I have 3 sets of Wheeler levels and I can set them on the same surface and I get 6 different readings.

I basically use them all when I mount a scope and take the average…..

An extra set isn’t a bad thing.

This sums up why they’re a waste of time and money. Throw them all in the trash…

 

[WapitiBob]

This sums up why they’re a waste of time and money. Throw them all in the trash…

The wheeler level has an adjustment screw. If you really want it right, take it to a machine shop and set it off one of their Starrett Master levels.

 

[nhenry]

@WapitiBob hit it but generally people would be better off if they focused on getting their hardware properly degreased, torqued, loctited with decent rings that are aligned with each other than all the silly leveling gizmos. Having a scope with a scope level mounted true to the reticle that the shooter uses when shooting makes a difference. If a shooter isn’t going to use a level on the scope when shooting, doing anything more than eyeballing it as plumb with bore while mounting is a waste of time.

Some other recent threads about leveling scopes that touch on it:

Scope looks canted

I just got my new nx8 2.5-20 scope in. I installed it on the rifle and to me it looks canted. I am using an unknown munitions bubble level on the rail, while it was level I leveled the reticle to a “plumb bob” string. Theoretically this should be perfectly level but when I level the bubble it...

www.hunttalk.com

Action Leveling

No doubt the topic of scope leveling has come up many times, often including mention of the gadgets that are available to make it easier. But IMHO, the greater challenge is finding the best way and tool to level the action when mounting a new optic. After all, if the action isn't level, what...

www.hunttalk.com

Stick the rifle in a vise, turn out the lights and shine a flashlight thru the scope. Line up the vertical crosshair “shadow” with a plumb bob line across the room and you’re good. Add a level to the scope tube so you have a visual reference showing when the reticle is plumb with gravity.
Where the rifle is under the scope doesn’t mean jack as long as the level is showing level when you shoot; the rifle cant will always be the same.

Thanks guys I’m sure the guys who didn’t understand are appreciative

 

[bluegrassdan]

The wheeler level has an adjustment screw. If you really want it right, take it to a machine shop and set it off one of their Starrett Master levels.

Was going to say, those cheap levels are basically junk, colored water in a tube. A good, accurate level is not cheap- ask any machinist who has had to level a lathe bed. Starrett makes an accurate and not overly expensive level, model 134, that works great if you want to use a level. I use mine in milling machine setups and for scope mounting.

 

[Boarmaster]

No, you dont. But if you want it go for it. This hunting and fishing thing is a hobby for me. I try all kinds of things that get my interest up. That why they make shelves and plastic bins. To toss all this crap I just had to try…..

 

[Ballistic]

Stick the rifle in a vise, turn out the lights and shine a flashlight thru the scope. Line up the vertical crosshair “shadow” with a plumb bob line across the room and you’re good. Add a level to the scope tube so you have a visual reference showing when the reticle is plumb with gravity.
Where the rifle is under the scope doesn’t mean jack as long as the level is showing level when you shoot; the rifle cant will always be the same.

Sort of........the cant will be the same in degrees off the axis. But the rifle will shoot further to the left or right the further you shoot. Under 300 yds who cares, maybe even 500 I never took the time to test the degree to which doing it poorly would affect the outcome. The goal is to have the centerline of the bore perfectly in vertical line with the centerline of the crosshairs while maintaining plumb on the vertical wire.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

Chart that I stole from someone on snipershide a while back and post frequently when scope leveling discussions come up: