802flyfish
Well-known member
We bought some new land and it has a decent amount of cheat grass mixed in. Curious as how others are managing or removing it? We have two dogs and I don’t want to deal with another expensive vet bill..
Cheat Grass removal
- Thread starter 802flyfish
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Jamen
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We have been doing some trials for foxtail with a fairly new product called Rejuvra. We have had really good success with it. They are using it alot for control of ventenata. It is a pre emergent product. so you will want to apply it before the grass grows in the spring, can do fall application to. Cheat grass is on the label and if it works like it has for us and others on other grasses you should have good luck. They say it will last 2-4 years which is good because it runs about $60/acre. I would also look into good surfactants. We used one called grounded it hold the herbicides in the soil a lot longer.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
802flyfish
Well-known member
That was really helpful. You think it’s worth mowing the clusters of cheatgrass in the meantime? Will be using that product come next spring.
Thank you !
Thank you !
Carnage2011
Well-known member
Do not mow it! And god forbid, don’t burn it either.
Message me. I can probably answer any questions you have.
802flyfish
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Will do!
406dn
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I have gotten rid of most of the cheat grass on our property by mowing it several times, in the spring, before the seed heads have fully formed and the cheat grass is green. Any that makes it long enough to ripen, I leave it for another year.
If the herbicide is a pre emergent, remember cheat grass germinates in the fall, after a good rain. So, maybe you treat in the late summer?
If the herbicide is a pre emergent, remember cheat grass germinates in the fall, after a good rain. So, maybe you treat in the late summer?
Forkyfinder
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Ive found just mowing, with some strategy, has reduced it a lot.
My place used to be a "horse ghetto" (few acres) when we moved in cheat grass and weeds was probably 40% of it. After a few years of mowing a few times a year (in the spring) and mowing cheatgrass or weeds especially short in the dry season - it shrinks a little every year.
Absolutely do not burn it. I tried that at first like a moron and it made it worse.
Ive heard theres a spray you can use - but the timing is pretty critical.
My place used to be a "horse ghetto" (few acres) when we moved in cheat grass and weeds was probably 40% of it. After a few years of mowing a few times a year (in the spring) and mowing cheatgrass or weeds especially short in the dry season - it shrinks a little every year.
Absolutely do not burn it. I tried that at first like a moron and it made it worse.
Ive heard theres a spray you can use - but the timing is pretty critical.
nomadicbohunk
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It's not too terrible to get rid of. Native stuff usually chokes it out. I don't work in areas with it much anymore, but the last I knew post fire folks were seeding with a sterile non native grass to choke it out and allow the native species to take hold. So FYI on that if anyone has a fire come through. Sorry I don't have much more than some links, but they should push you towards what herbicides work and the timing.
I will add this. I don't know how big of an area you own and what access you have to equipment, but over about 10 years my dad turned an 80 acre crap hole into one of the most high quality tall grass prairie restorations I know of. 90% of it was hand spraying, hand picking seed, and spreading seed by hand. So yeah, do a little at a time if it's big and keep at it. That's a different type of project, but you get what I'm saying.
I've had decent luck mowing cheat grass as long as I get to it early. We have lots of yellow toadflax, which I used to spray, but I found if I made any progress against the toadflax, the cheat grass just came in and replaced it. Frankly I'd rather have the toadflax because at least that benefits the polinators. I'm at the point now where I just mow it all early, maybe more than once, and I don't poison the water anymore with spraying.
kwyeewyk
Well-known member
Rejuvra is a trade name of Indaziflam, available under other names as well, it prevents germination, as opposed to a true preemergent that targets germinating seeds before they emerge. It has a strong residual action that can last for many years. No personal experience with it. Imazapic is another preemergent option with a shorter residual period that works well on cheat and other annual invasives like mustard. I've seen a lot of good results from fall treatments, especially following fire. There's some similar formulations as well if you search. Surfactant is important, Grounded has been good with imazapic.
As mentioned, cheat is a winter annual so it begins sprouting when fall moisture and cooler temperatures come, so fall application is best.
How many acres are you dealing with? Ground broadcast is an option but larger acreage aerial is most efefficient. If you have lots of weeds and only some desirable species you might need to seed in the gaps created by killing the weeds, otherwise eventually weeds will fill back in. Could be a factor in which herbicide you use as well, a conversation with a local weed board or trustworthy contractor could be worthwhile.
As mentioned, cheat is a winter annual so it begins sprouting when fall moisture and cooler temperatures come, so fall application is best.
How many acres are you dealing with? Ground broadcast is an option but larger acreage aerial is most efefficient. If you have lots of weeds and only some desirable species you might need to seed in the gaps created by killing the weeds, otherwise eventually weeds will fill back in. Could be a factor in which herbicide you use as well, a conversation with a local weed board or trustworthy contractor could be worthwhile.
802flyfish
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We have have 10 acres. Will be reaching out to a local contractor. Thanks.
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Dakotakid
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Or county extension.
Since you are in South West montana you could always swing into a rocky mountain supply. They are normally pretty knowledgeable for this sort of stuff.
802flyfish
Well-known member
Just had our property treated. Our county will reimburse up to 50% of the total bill. Next time, I plan on buying a sprayer and my own chemicals. 
kwyeewyk
Well-known member
100/acre pretty typical pricing for small scale. Good deal with the county, will they reimburse you for buying equipment? Did they mention if the milestone would have some residual effect to suppress cheatgrass sprouting in the fall? I know it's got a mild residual action but haven't used it for cheat at this time of year. We're in the middle of milestone applications for mostly Canada thistle right now.
Just be prepared for dealing with nasty chemicals. Rubber gloves obviously for mixing the brew. Mist mask/dust mask (3M) so you don't breathe the stuff (or a respirator). Eye protection for sure. Watch the wind, better to do it on a calm day so it's not blowing back on you. A disposable suit isn't a bad idea although you can just use old clothes and toss them out. I personally wouldn't want to put them in my washing machine. I still have my boom sprayer and all the stuff, but these days I think I'd rather pay somebody. It's unpleasant business.
COEngineer
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I saw an article about this product and finally looked it up: https://bynder.envu.com/m/54a941473b6cea58/original/Digital_VM_Rejuvra_label_NA_US_EN.pdf
It's $500 for a 32 oz bottle, but only requires ~5 oz/acre:
