Building arrows??

Your going to left fletch if arrow spins left? Many arrows do, good luck keeping your points installed.
Yes I am. Do you fletch everything right and just let the arrow correct itself 10 yards from the bow?
 
Don't worry about FOC. Build for your target total arrow weight and let FOC fall where it may. 450-500 gr is a good TAW for most hunters IMO.

3 vs. 4 vanes is largely a matter of personal preference. Either configuration can get the job done. The greater the surface area of your broadhead, the more fletching drag you need to create to counteract the broadhead's ability to steer the arrow off course. Fletching drag can be increased by increasing vane quantity, height, length, or helical/offset angle. The only real way to know if you have enough fletching is to build a test arrow and try it out with a broadhead. 3 Bohning Blazers at 2-3° offset is a common choice that works well most of the time, but there are countless other workable fletching configurations.

If you're dead set on Victory VAP's, quit reading here...
I personally think the juice isn't worth the squeeze with micro diameter (4mm/.166") arrows. All you gain is a (likely negligible) decrease in wind drift, and they force you into a conundrum on insert choice: either a complicated, failure-prone half-out/outsert compatible with standard thread (8-32) components or a more robust Deep Six hidden insert (HIT) with specialty threads (6-40) that severely limit your choice of compatible broadhead. 4mm shafts are also more difficult to fletch. Boring old standard diameter (6.5mm/.245") shafts are easier to deal with in all respects and are often significantly less expensive. If you insist on something skinnier than standard diameter, a 5mm/.204" shaft could be a good compromise.
 
Heavy point up front causes shaft to bend more AKA absorbing more energy from the bow which in turn makes the bow quieter. There is a point where to light of a spine will cause serious issues with arrow stability and possibly failure. Dr. Ashby gets real involved with it. It is even more amplified with a light recurve bow. Get a light spined shaft and gradually increase point weight. You will see what I am talking about. There is a long process you can get into if you like to tinkering around. Each arrow can be tuned based on the "sweet spot" of the spine. You can find that by knock tuning. I have done this and spent a lot of time. Basically can shoot impressive groups with field points and no fletch on the arrow. Just like handloading for a rifle to get optimum speed and accuracy but you have to read pressure signs, velocity spread, and etc. With spine you have to read what it is telling you before failure.
That aint solid physics. If the arrow absorbing more energy, then the same weight arrow should see faster speeds as the only way to get less sound is to get more energy sent to the arrow in the form of KE....The fact that the arrow would deflect more is sound, just that accuracy would suffer if your arrow was underpined, it would have no effect on sound. Ashby also doesn't believe in the laws of physics
 
That aint solid physics. If the arrow absorbing more energy, then the same weight arrow should see faster speeds as the only way to get less sound is to get more energy sent to the arrow in the form of KE....The fact that the arrow would deflect more is sound, just that accuracy would suffer if your arrow was underpined, it would have no effect on sound. Ashby also doesn't believe in the laws of physics
You add more weight up front so...you are changing the weight of the arrow. Because it is now heavier and causing more force to launch it absorbs more energy. Simple physics......
 
You add more weight up front so...you are changing the weight of the arrow. Because it is now heavier and causing more force to launch it absorbs more energy. Simple physics......
Yea, that is simple physics. My point was, being the same mass, a high FOC arrow will not quiet the bow more than a "low" FOC arrow.
 
Yea, that is simple physics. My point was, being the same mass, a high FOC arrow will not quiet the bow more than a "low" FOC arrow.
My point being take a shaft put a 100gr point on it and shoot it now put a 200 gr point on it shoot it. 100% fact you will notice a difference in noise and vibration felt. OP was asking about higher FOC not heavier arrow set up.
 
My point being take a shaft put a 100gr point on it and shoot it now put a 200 gr point on it shoot it. 100% fact you will notice a difference in noise and vibration felt.
The arrow setup would be 100 gr more in that instance.
 
The arrow setup would be 100 gr more in that instance.
No....really??? AGAIN OP is asking about increasing FOC not a heavy arrow set up. All my replies have been about lighter shafts and increasing weight up front.
 
No....really??? AGAIN OP is asking about increasing FOC not a heavy arrow set up. All my replies have been about lighter shafts and increasing weight up front.
FOC will not quiet bow more than the commensurate weight added, that is what I am saying.

If the increased "bending" of the arrow stores more energy in high FOC, speed should increase with high FOC and same weight arrow. It doesn't
 
No....really??? AGAIN OP is asking about increasing FOC not a heavy arrow set up. All my replies have been about lighter shafts and increasing weight up front.
To be fair the OP did ask about both FOC and weight:
How much should I worry FOC or what about overall weight?

Also, I agree with @sclancy27. It's the weight itself (regardless of where on the arrow it's added) that's primarily responsible for a heavier arrow making a bow quieter. Increased FOC is simply a consequence of adding that weight to the front. The noise reduction would be just as great if the weight were added to the rear of the arrow or to the shaft and the FOC decreased.
 
I’ve shot the same arrow; carbon express maxima hunter since 2011. I feel that it’s time to upgrade and I’ve narrowed it down to Victory VAP TKO Elite and I think I want to build them.
How much should I worry FOC or what about overall weight?
What type of fletching to go with? 3 or 4 vane? Offset? Or whatever else?
You taking this all down?;)
 
I’ve shot the same arrow; carbon express maxima hunter since 2011. I feel that it’s time to upgrade and I’ve narrowed it down to Victory VAP TKO Elite and I think I want to build them.
How much should I worry FOC or what about overall weight?
What type of fletching to go with? 3 or 4 vane? Offset? Or whatever else?
Sorry for the ramblings. But, to answer your questions...

1. I don't worry at all about FOC, it is whatever it is
2. I shoot the heaviest arrow I can and still shoot 275-280 fps. For me this is ~530 gr. But, many people have success with lighter arrows. Then most important thing is accuracy. I shoot heavy arrows because I like shooting expandables and the heavier arrows work better with them (higher momentum)
3. I've shot 3 and 4 fletch. I switched to 4 fletch to stiffen my arrow. Outside of that, I really didn't notice any difference in broadhead accuracy. This is with a well-tuned bow and properly spined arrows.
4. I do shoot a helical. It prob doesn't matter much as long as your bow/arrow combo is well tuned. That said, helical and/or offset will help when you have a bad shot due to form breakdown. Also, both offset and helical will cause faster decrease in arrow speed over time, ie they will impact lower at 80 yards than straight fletch. Low profile vanes are really difficult to shoot fixed blade heads with. I shoot AAE Max Stealth, very durable.
 
To be fair the OP did ask about both FOC and weight:


Also, I agree with @sclancy27. It's the weight itself (regardless of where on the arrow it's added) that's primarily responsible for a heavier arrow making a bow quieter. Increased FOC is simply a consequence of adding that weight to the front. The noise reduction would be just as great if the weight were added to the rear of the arrow or to the shaft and the FOC decreased.
I agree 100% adding weight is adding weight.
I can't agree with just building a heavy arrow will give you optimum performance.
 
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