Big Hole Montana

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June 14, 2014

One of the major attractions for outdoor sportsmen and women in Montana is our “blue ribbon” fisheries in conjunction with our stream access law. When I first moved to Bozeman in 1978, I was amazed that you could get in a boat and float down the rivers to fish. And as you floated you did not run into barbed wire fences and barriers across the rivers. We did not have to “pay attention” to who owned the land. We just floated and fished. You just floated along and threw flies, lures or bait near the shore and caught trout and whitefish. It was and is unbelievable fishing and access quality.

If you didn’t have a boat, you could also go to access points and get in the water and wade-fish up and down stream as far as you wanted. I quickly learned the Madison and Yellowstone rivers near my home. Now from time to time I move to other rivers to see “whatsup” with them. Last year it was the Missouri which provides big time fishing for hundreds if not thousands of anglers.

Four days ago one of Diane’s and my floating and fishing buddies called and asked if we would like to go for a few days on the Big Hole. We were available and said, “Yes.”

Our friend was anxious to see if his recent back surgery was “good to go.” It had been six weeks since he had two vertebrae fused and pressure points cleaned out from too much physical abuse in his younger years. He and I are both now on Medicare, and we don’t heal as fast as we used to, but he was ready to try out his new back. It worked fine for him.

So Tuesday morning we met at his house at 7:00 a.m. He took his truck and his raft, and we were in our truck with our camper. You may wonder why I’ve lived in Montana for 35 years and never floated the Missouri or the Big Hole. My answer is, “I’ve been too damn busy.” Between work and play, there was no time left. But now that I’m retired, it’s time to expand my experiences.

The drive was around 125 miles from our homes to the public campgrounds and put-ins on the Big Hole. What a great floating and fishing river! The public campgrounds around Divide and Melrose were nearly full. The salmon fly hatch was starting around there. So we went further upstream. We found a State campground that was nearly empty and took two spots. Since we are over 62 years old and have valid MT fishing licenses, our camps cost us $3.50 each night.

I know I shouldn’t be posting all this easy, cheap public “fun” on a blog, but the word is already out. There are plenty of nonresidents who come to play and many have chosen to stay. The number of anglers and hunters has grown significantly in my 35 years here, but I don’t let it get in my way of having my own fun. Things change, but Diane and I peg the fun meter. Just ask our kids and their kids!

To mitigate the resident versus nonresident conflict and crowding issues, the fishing regulations on the Big Hole are very unique. For most days of the week, there is a stretch of river that is open to residents only. Guides and nonresidents must fish other parts of the river. On some days nonresidents can join the residents, but guides are still forbidden on that stretch of the river on that particular day of the week.

We used these regulations to our advantage one day and sure enough we saw only one other boat that day. This was my first fishing under these rules, but I would like to see them expanded to the Madison and the Yellowstone.

Anyway, in three days and two nights we covered 44 miles of river, not floating anything twice. We caught dozens of fish on Panther Martins and big dry flies with pink San Juan worm droppers. A good time was had by all and we now have the Big Hole on our short list.

Remember that to maintain this quality fishing experience we must have the habitat to produce and maintain healthy populations of trout. We must also have access to enjoy our sport and we must have the political and financial commitment to maintain and improve both.

Here are some pics:

Diane with a trophy whitefish.

Di&fish.jpg

One of my browns on a fly.

SVT&brown #2 big hole.jpg

Friend Mike and me at camp.

Mike&shannon big hole.jpg

Another brown on a fly.

SVT&brown big hole.jpg

Mike's raft awaiting our arrival.

Mike's boat on shore.jpg

Mikes rig and Big Sky country.

Mikes truck&boat.jpg

Still lots of snow in the mountains.

Snow mtns.jpg

Frost on everything and steam on the Big Hole each morning.

Steam on Big hole.jpg

Two fresh brook trout for breakfast.

Fried fish big hole.jpg

If you want a little cabin along a Montana Blue ribbon river, you have to compete against individuals mostly nonresidents who can build homes like this one which is a little ways down stream of where Wise River flows into the Big Hole:

Mansion on Big Hole.jpg
 
That's Randy's house, isn't it ?

Nice time. Montana is a 24 hour drive for me, but I need to get back with a fishing pole next time.
 
I'm glad you guys had a great trip on the big hole. I have a ton of memories fishing this great river.

The river that once was! When I was a kid fish size was in the five to ten pound range and the giant stone fly hatch was very prolific. Three generation of my family have lived on the banks of the Big Hole River and seen it change radically. The days of the big fish are gone. There is a good population of fish but not the size that once was. As for the giant stone fly hatch is it is also just a memory of years gone by. I have my own opinion as to why this has happened. One is climate change and the other is to much competition from a larger fish population. I can remember as a kid in the winter you could go to a local bar and they would have smoked whitefish instead of peanuts. Whitefish were caught by the gunnysack full back then. I believe that the increased whitefish population has contributed to the decline in stone flies because they feed on the nymphs in the winter months.

 
RobertR, I hate hearing about the down-hill slide of any fishery. Hopefully people who care and FW&P's biologists are trying to turn it around. The Big Hole would be a hoot if you could pick up one or two fish a day over five or more pounds. Holy smokes, that would be so cool.
The biggest fish we caught were to few browns I posted pics of that were 1.5 to 2 lbs.
Could it be there are too many brook trout? We sure picked up a bunch of them.
My floating-fishing buddy Mike thought there were more salmon flies ten or twenty years ago.
Again, I'm hopeful concerned Big Hole anglers are working on maintaining and improving their river.
Thanks for the great pics of the salmon flies. They complement my story well.
And smoked whitefish for bar snacks! what a great idea.
 
Interesting history. Thanks for sharing.

I wasn't aware of the decline in the salmon fly hatch, thats interesting. You think it may be due to all the non-native trout in the river? Also I wonder if the big fish of yester-year were the remnants of prior stocking programs and depletion of all the natives? Big fish usually means fewer fish, so maybe that's why there was more flies?

My great-grandfather talked about how the hunting and fishing in MT went down hill from when he was a kid... So I guess its been on the decline for at least 100 years.
 
Great thread, and some great pictures as well.

As to the changes in fishing and salmon flies, etc.

Lots of things have changed. For starters, any given body of water can only support so many fish. Its either a lot of smaller fish, or a less bigger fish. Just the way it is.

As to the decline in macroinvertabrates and change in fish species, etc. lots of reasons for that.

Water quality, temperature, and TMDL's, dewatering, etc. can all lead to declines in macros as well as change the species composition of rivers. I'm sure if you looked at historic photos of the bighole, or any river, from 50 years ago you'd see wayyy less houses close to a river, way more shrub cover near rivers.

The more shrub cover you have the cooler it keeps water tempatures (in particular temperature spikes in the summer and during low water periods). The other thing that deep binding root mass, associated with shrub cover, provides is bank stability. Banks that are stable, do not erode away and increase siltation and TMDL's that also can increase water temperature, as well as siltation. Finally, all the leaves, etc. provide biomass to the river that the macros eat. Rivers today are largely not in as good of condition as they were 50 years ago.

When any aquatic environment is changed that decreases water quality and over-all riparian health, there are going to be impacts. Whether thats a decline in the number of native fish, increase of non-natives, decline in available food for fish, etc.

The sooner we realize that our actions have consequences, the sooner we can work to improve and/or mitigate some of the impacts.

The trouble is, many people think that things are great as long as they can catch 50 fish a day. The number of fish caught a day is not necessarily indicative of stream, fish, or over-all riparian health. Perfect example of this is high mountain lakes full of 8-10 inch trout that are stunted, skinny, and will hit anything you throw at them. Sure, its loads of fun to catch a fish every cast, but far from a healthy situation.

Thats not limited to just riparian habitat, thats the case with ALL habitat. Something we need to be mindful of in making management decisions. Everything we do impacts the resource one way or another...everything is hitched to everything else.
 
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Well said Buzz.
I've fished lakes like that, a 10" trout on every cast, only to walk away wondering "Why do we never catch a big fish ?"
 
I'll add some more to the mystery.
There have been some huge floods on the big hole but none as in June of 1927 when a hundred foot high earthen dam washed out. It almost doubled any big high water recording. Most average big high water years run about 12,000 cfs but when this dam broke the best they could record was 23,000 cfs. An epic flood that changed the river for decades. I have been lucky enough to wittiness many over 14,000 cfs. To be honest a river needs average high waters to clean silt and redistribute point bars and get rid of trash such as fallen trees.
On the other hand in the winter months this river or any other river will be higher because of ice jams and freezing up. There is far more stream bed and bank erosion in the winter than any high water.
I'm not going to dispute Buzz's reason for fish size but I will add something that is both good and not so good. Catch and release is good in that it preserves fish numbers and some big fish but it don't decrease the fish numbers to allow fish to have a larger habitat.
Back to the stone fly dilemma. Yes climate change,water temps have contributed but I think whitefish should be factored in. I remember fish in the winter and we would catch a few whitefish and cut them open and they would alway have fresh stonefly nymphs inside. This tells me they feed on the nymphs year around. One more tidbit about the stonefly picture. If you noticed the antennas are pulled under the body. The reason is because the antennas are the last to detach from the case I had twenty two pictures of this stonefly hatching start to finish. For the most part they hatch in the dark to allow their wings to dry in order to fly and not be such an easy target for birds.

Here is a photo of me at nine years old and the quality of fish in the sixties, the other is to show how high the river gets in the winter.




 
Robert's right. There's no fish in there worth catching. It's hardly worth the time to go there and simply stand in the river, waving a stick next to the 5,000 other folks who've not given up on this river. Between the wolves and the lack of big fish, the entire valley should just be abandoned as lost and nobody should ever go there again.

BTW: Great group of folks working on the dewatering issue: http://bhwc.org/


A lot of the Big Hole Fishing Access Sites are funded by the Land & Water Conservation Fund (Like George Grant):
 

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Sounds like a great trip. Cool pictures across the board.


In my experience....

Every year right around now, the last week in May and the first couple weeks in June, the Big Hole Valley upstream from Wise River is in my opinion as beautiful as any place on earth could ever be.

The hayfields have yet to be cut, and Montana's highest and largest valley is as green as Ireland. Juxtaposed against the 10,000 ft peaks of the Beaverhead Range still covered in snow, the river is nearly blown out, and the fly fisherman are sitting at The Crossing Bar in Wisdom drinking beer and bitching about the dirty water.

The bait-fisherman, they are bitching about the snow and the rain, but they are drinking their beer on the banks of the river, and their creels are full of fish.
 
I'll add a little more.
Ben the dewatering issue is big in a lot of ways. The company I work for works close with FWP and put in stock tanks to allow small steams to return to the river instead of using them for stock water or irrigation. With that said since flood irrigation is becoming a thing of the past a few things have happened. The one thing that some might notice is stands of cottonwood trees and willows dying and some what lower flows in the winter. Don't get me wrong sprinkler irrigation is more productive for crops but it has depleted some underground aquifers that store water and feed any river later on in the winter. I'll go one step further. In the drought of 1988 I took water temps of all streams,wells and any standing water. What I found out was where the ground water from flood irrigation fed back into the river dropped the temperature by 10 to 12 degrees.
One more change in the big hole river structure that some may not notice is that the river in general has lost some of the deep fishing holes. This has happened because there has not been repeated high water years and high water channels that allow the river to spread out have become choked off with cottonwoods and willows putting the bed load in the deeper holes and not making as many point bars.
 
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