cahunter805
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If you have tried some 180s already I’d probably try contacting Ruger and see what they say. Sounds like a bad barrel to me.
Barrel Re-Crowning
- Thread starter Losing_Sanity
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std7mag
Well-known member
My 2 Ruger 77s both have contact point in the forestock.
Enough so that on the 280, i have some of the bluing worn off.
Don't bother contacting Ruger, as you've already had work done to it, AND they explicitly say "removal of contact point removes any accuracy warranty".
More i think about it a 7mm RCM sounds just the ticket!
I'd sell it to your friend in Pennsylvania.
Yes, me! Lol
Enough so that on the 280, i have some of the bluing worn off.
Don't bother contacting Ruger, as you've already had work done to it, AND they explicitly say "removal of contact point removes any accuracy warranty".
More i think about it a 7mm RCM sounds just the ticket!
I'd sell it to your friend in Pennsylvania.
Yes, me! Lol
Losing_Sanity
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Losing_Sanity
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I wonder what @VikingsGuy, another pro 7mm fan, thinks about the 7mm RCM conversion.
VikingsGuy
Well-known member
Two topics I have taken views on before -- Yes, I like the ballistics of 7mm projectiles and No, I don't see the need for magnums in North America. My only magnum right now is a 300WSM - every time I go to clean out the safe I tell myself I should sell it - unless I pull a 1 in a million bison tag it will likely never leave the safe again. But I am sure 7RCM is a great cartridge for others. Meanwhile I am still trying to find time to work up loads for my 280AI - just not enough down time this summer
VikingsGuy
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Upon further thought, if I pulled a bison tag I would probably buy a lever action 45/70 for that hunt.
cahunter805
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Losing
After reread this thread it seems you have some attachment to this rifle and would like to keep it.
I agree since modified Ruger will probably not be of any help. I also think the crown is probably fine.
It’s more than likely a bad/rough barrel.
I would say try the Tubbs final finish system of fire lapping bullets. It’s relatively inexpensive and since the barrel isn’t shooting well anyway I suspect this may help it out a good bit.
After reread this thread it seems you have some attachment to this rifle and would like to keep it.
I agree since modified Ruger will probably not be of any help. I also think the crown is probably fine.
It’s more than likely a bad/rough barrel.
I would say try the Tubbs final finish system of fire lapping bullets. It’s relatively inexpensive and since the barrel isn’t shooting well anyway I suspect this may help it out a good bit.
Losing_Sanity
Well-known member
The 300 RCM is about the same as a 300 wsm, at least in performance from what I have read.
So, what makes a magnum a magnum other than name? From what I have experienced from my 300 RCM is that it is a glorified 30-06 with a shorter bolt, with smaller and fatter cases. About the same if not less felt recoil as the '06. What is the distinguishing "Magnum" factors?
VikingsGuy
Well-known member
Often larger actions, more powder usage, more expensive ammo, more muzzle flash, more recoil, etc. Lots of exceptions to these generalities and I have no problem with magnums - they may be fun for some and that's great. I tend to prefer precision and efficiency over raw power. For me, I don't think 98% of NA hunting requires a bullet over 165 grains to go faster than 3000 fps to get the job done. A 150 grain mono-bullet at 3,000fps is plenty for most cases and magnum not needed to get there - so I don't have the need for magnum. Fun to hear the stories of those who shoot big RUMs etc. Variety is the spice of life.
std7mag
Well-known member
Ruger never made the 7mm version of their RCM. While i'm sure it's been done, you'd be in wildcat territory.
Also don't forget that the RCM line holds less powder than the WSM, RSAUM lines.
Here's a thought...
Back to the original issue.
Do you have enough copper in the barrel?
Lots of people think copper is bad.
But i've seen barrels that "tighten up" with 20 or more rounds through without cleaning the copper out. It won't build up to the point of not being able to shoot it. It reaches an equilibrium.
Also don't forget that the RCM line holds less powder than the WSM, RSAUM lines.
Here's a thought...
Back to the original issue.
Do you have enough copper in the barrel?
Lots of people think copper is bad.
But i've seen barrels that "tighten up" with 20 or more rounds through without cleaning the copper out. It won't build up to the point of not being able to shoot it. It reaches an equilibrium.
iaengineer
Member
That video is great brought back some memories. I used to work for Larry and I remember we spent considerable time trying to understand the impact of crowns. I remember one week at the range with a hacksaw cutting off about 1/2" at a time and then re crowning. I would test the fresh hack sawed barrel then crown and retest. from my experience I highly doubt re crowning will do anything. I would keep trying some different brass, bullets powder... Try not cleaning it.
VOLhunter
Well-known member
Unless you're emotionally attached, I would sell it (with disclosure).
You can dump a lot of money chasing marginal accuracy instead of using the rifles you already have confidence it. Save the $ or put it towards another hunt.
You can dump a lot of money chasing marginal accuracy instead of using the rifles you already have confidence it. Save the $ or put it towards another hunt.
Don Fischer
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I think your chasing your own butt! The rifle dont shoot by now most likely it won't be much better after the next experiment! I had a Model 7 like tht when they first came out. Best thing I did for it and me was to sell it! Just not worth the time chasing a ghost!
Losing_Sanity
Well-known member
You, and others with the same advise, make a supper point. A point and suggestion that I probably should follow. However, I don't want to push it off on someone else. Even with disclosure. And at the least, I can re-barrel it as a last effort. The 7mm suggestion does interest me. The rifle does have some sentimental value and meaning to me. Also, if it wasn't this one, I'd be messing with something else. Besides, I'm learning a lot from everyone and that you cannot put a price on. I may even facilitate a friendship with the conversations. And with that, I do appreciate all contributions to this thread.
VikingsGuy
Well-known member
Sorry if this has already been posted, but I found it interesting. We in the gun community (me included) have a lot of firm beliefs about accuracy and often little data behind them:
rifleshooter.com
Do rifle crowns matter? Does a crown affect accuracy? I find out with the help of my grinder…
Do rifle crowns matter? Does a crown affect accuracy? I think most of use would say yes. It seems intuitive that the crown, the last part of the rifle that touches the bullet before it leaves the…
rifleshooter.com
Losing_Sanity
Well-known member
Sorry if this has already been posted, but I found it interesting. We in the gun community (me included) have a lot of firm beliefs about accuracy and often little data behind them:
Do rifle crowns matter? Does a crown affect accuracy? I find out with the help of my grinder…
Do rifle crowns matter? Does a crown affect accuracy? I think most of use would say yes. It seems intuitive that the crown, the last part of the rifle that touches the bullet before it leaves the…
Thanks for sharing this article. It is an intersting read. I don't remember it being posted before in the thread, but I'd have to reread the entire post to be sure. I'm amazed at the results of his test.
VOLhunter
Well-known member
Since you're intent on keeping it, I'll offer this as "things to check" on your list for accuracy. I've never owned a ruger for 1 reason, I don't trust the built-in bases on the receiver. I have worked on several rugers owned by friends who were chasing accuracy. There is no guarantee that the bases were milled exactly inline with the center of the bore and you end up aligning a scope on a horizontally (or x and y axis) different plane. At 1 distance the rifle would be on, move out 100 yards, and it's way off. I worked on 1 ruger that had a cant in the milled base that threw the rings off and torqued the scope . If you haven't trued you're rings with a scope mounting kit like wheeler's, I would suggest you start there. If you're taking it to a gunsmith to re-crown, have him flatten the receiver and drill and tap some holes for standard bases to mount. Just my .02
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Losing_Sanity
Well-known member
I emailed Ruger 3 or 4 days ago about the excessive jump to the rifling. No reply yet. We will see what they say about that. If I don't hear anything by Wednesday, I'll go talk to the gunsmith that I go to. See what he says.
std7mag
Well-known member
I haven't looked at the SAAMI drawings to see what kind of freebore it shows.
But having a long freebore doesn't necessarily mean it can't be accurate.
The Weatherby magnums all have a long freebore.
Ditto cartridges based on lever, single, pump, and semi auto actions. 30-30, 284 Win, etc..
I can seat 162gr ELDX out till it is just barely held in the neck on my 284 Win.
Seated to the base of the neck it will still put 5 rounds in 0.78" at 100 yards.
Please don't take this the wrong way, but if it were me, i'd have someone else shoot the rifle. If still the same results, i might take to a different smith and have him look over the work of the first smith.
But having a long freebore doesn't necessarily mean it can't be accurate.
The Weatherby magnums all have a long freebore.
Ditto cartridges based on lever, single, pump, and semi auto actions. 30-30, 284 Win, etc..
I can seat 162gr ELDX out till it is just barely held in the neck on my 284 Win.
Seated to the base of the neck it will still put 5 rounds in 0.78" at 100 yards.
Please don't take this the wrong way, but if it were me, i'd have someone else shoot the rifle. If still the same results, i might take to a different smith and have him look over the work of the first smith.
Don Fischer
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If the bedding is all good, no pressure anywhere, I'd think the problem has got to be in the barrel. That Mod 7 I spoke of Remington said fell withing exceptable spec's, but not for me. Someone else told me it could have been a poorly cut chamber, maybe, I don't know. But the only thing I'm pretty sure of is it had to be something to do with the barrel. Reason being I went through the bedding completely and floated then bedded the barrel solid, nothing helped. I have an old Springfield a gunsmith told me need's barrel replaced, badly pitted from corrosive primer's. Funny thing about that barrel needing replaced, it still gives me 1 1/4" group's with fairly hot 180gr handloads. Since then bad new's with it it's killed three elk in three shot's. Not to bad for a worn out barrel! So leads me to think the Rifle shooter article above really shed's some needed light on this crown idea. Perhaps if your looking for match accuracy, could be the crown is bad. Shoot I'd might even think the crown not being straight across could be a problem but didn't seem to effect the rifle the guy was writing about much. Most of us go looking for match accuracy from a hunting rifle and darn few ever find it, if any really find it. I'm one of those guy's myself probably. Get a rifle shooting good and seem to never be satisfied, still want better. I suspect you have a good action and you could simply rebarrel it. Probably cost as much as a new rifle but if your willing to do that, who's to say it's wrong! before you go to that expense do a good job checking the bedding in the action and under the barrel, your problem could be there. Oh, something about bedding. If your rifle is bedded and the barrel is bedded under the chamber, be sure the bedding material under the chamber runs straight across the barrel bed. If not the barrel won't shoot for diddly!
