Save $100 on the Leupold VX-3HD

5x - 25x scope

I'm liking more and more the 3-15x range of optics. My short list (in no particular order) is now getting down to:

1. Leupold VX-5HD 3-15x44mm CDS-ZL2 FireDot Duplex Scope
2. Burris Veracity 4-20x50mm
3. Vortex Razor LHT 3-15x50 G4i BDC
4. Zeiss CONQUEST V4 3-12x56 Plex Reticle 60

WRT illuminated vs non-illuminated reticles, do you all have any preferences pro/con?
 
I have a Burris Fullfield, and really like it! I can only imagine the Veracity being better!
I've looked through Vortex Golden Eagles, Vipers. Had Diamondbacks. Have Crossfire IIs.
I always felt ripped off with the Diamondbacks, so got rid of them!
While Vortex makes some great scopes, my biggest issue with them is they flare out easily. More so than any other maker out there.
Of the ones you listed, i'd probably go for the Leupold, or the Burris.
 
IMO - 5X is more magnification that you will want at first and last light. 25X is REALLY tough to hold steady in the field. It can be done but even with a good bipod and back bag in the prone position......it is tough.

I really like the Swaro Z5 in 3.5-18 power. The glass is super super clear and great at low light. Went shooting with a buddy and we had three guns. Two of the guns had vortex Vipers and one had a Swaro. We could see good enough at first light to shoot the gun with the Swaro but had to wait quite a few minutes to look through the Vortex Viper scopes. Had a buddy wound an animal a few years ago. Animal got out to 964 yards and was looking to go over the hill. He asked me to shoot the animal if I could. The gun was pointed at the sun and I could only use 6X. Two shots in a row hit the animal and it rolled down the hill. Didn't need magnification to get the job done. Was shooting a vortex at the time and really wished I had more clarity instead of magnification.
 
I dont’t have a wide experience with scopes, but I use a Zeiss Conquest V4 6-24x50 for my .308 and Im very happy with it. For its size its quite light.

My purpose with it is hunting small targets from a distance (its basically like hitting an apple from 250 yards). Since I put on a silencer I mostly get target back in the scope after the recoil.

Remember that at this magnification level you’ll need a decent size lense, as well as a high degree of light let through it, especially in bad light conditions or heavy mist.

Also remember parallax adjustment can become a huge hassle, depending on your eyes. It is for me.
 
Most scopes will get you to 400 and under if they hold zero. After that it’s just shooting and not hunting.
 
i do
I didn't want to hijack the Perfect Magnification thread so will ask my question here.

I currently have a 4x-12x scope on my 30-06. I have pre-ordered a .300 Win Mag, and am looking to go out to CO next year on my first (and perhaps only) elk hunt. I am looking at putting a 5x-25x scope on it. I have never had one - or needed one - of that magnification, as all my shooting has been < 150 yards. I don't know what I'll encounter next year, but I know I'm most likely only going to get one opportunity. I'm taking "enough rifle" for the trip, and I'd also like to make sure I'm taking "enough glass" as well.

For the moment I'd like to set aside the discussion of brands; I know that some manufacturers are far superior than others. I'd prefer to concentrate first on the best magnification, then I'll choose the brand. While I won't say "money is no object", in the end I'm going to buy whi

Take my 3-15 to 800 yards regularly. It’s all I’d need on a big game rifle.
leupold anyday, everyday
 
When I first started to look at scopes all I was concerned about was the top end magnification.

After I had spent (wasted) my money 🤦🏻‍♂️ I realized that the bottom end magnification can be just as important, or more so! Because it determines the field of view (FoV) for quick and close shots.
And if that FoV is too narrow I'll be taking half an eternity to aquire my target. And close-up quarry usually don't stick around for more than a quarter of an eternity.... 😟


So, I started paying attention to the FoV (not so much the bottom end magnification, because one 3x scope can have a FoV of 25ft (@100y), and another 3x scope can have a 39ft FoV — huge difference.


🔶 To help me in my scope shopping I've made up a Scope Specs Table where important specs can be compared side by side:
▪FoV
▪price
▪warranty
▪weight
▪length
▪IR


➔ Attached below is the Specs Table for scopes with:
▪4-14x | 3-18x | 4-20x | 4-16x
▪Side parallax (down to 10y)
▪Exposed turrets
▪Holdoff reticle
▪Sorted by FFP vs. SFP
▪Prices up to around $500 give or take


Hope someone finds this useful for their scope shopping. 😊

Matthias


❌ Attachment: Scope Specs Table 4-14x | 3-18x | 4-20x | 4-16x
 

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Precision work requires excellent tracking, along with glass quality, and high magnification.
I regularly shoot matches where 1/100th of an inch is difference of winning or placing. Or losing.
Different world than hunting.
Sightron SIII 10-50X60 sitting on my wife's Savage 110FP. Choate Ultimate Varminter stock.
As seen rifle weighs 14lbs.

If you can't see it, you can't hit it! Lol

Both targets shot at 6X with a sub 10lb .308Win. There are more if I had time to dig, and more in the trash. But hey, I guess some folks need 50X to shoot paper.

OP, you don’t need a ton of power to hit an animal. 4X-6X is plenty....to hit an animal. I once shot a nice buck instead of a potential B&C because I got them mixed up when I took the shot at 380yds with a fixed 6X. I currently hunt with a 4-20X and 6.5-20X for the sake of differentiating deer at distance. It’s nice to go way over 20X when actually judging animals, but even at times when I don’t pack a spotter, 20X is enough, after spotting a deer with binos, to judge whether it’s worth trying to get closer to an animal at extreme distance or ignore it, and it’s more than enough to differentiate between animals within shooting range. I would think that 12X-14X would be more than enough to so the same with elk. IN FACT, when I should a nice buck instead of a potential B&C buck, I could tell them apart with 8X binos, but not at 6X. They went behind some brush, first the smaller one, then the bigger one, when they came out, I shot the second buck to come out from the brush....I got a really nice picture of the second buck that I had seen ENTER the brush about a month later. :(
 

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Good shoot'n, Bill!
I see we are playing some of the same games.

These old eyes haven't found a telescope with a reticle, or a way to mount it yet. :oops:

Finally shot a 0.2" group Monday.
Problem is it wasn't the gun i shoot matches with.
The coyotes are in trouble though!
 
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IMO - 5X is more magnification that you will want at first and last light. 25X is REALLY tough to hold steady in the field. It can be done but even with a good bipod and back bag in the prone position......it is tough.

I really like the Swaro Z5 in 3.5-18 power. The glass is super super clear and great at low light. Went shooting with a buddy and we had three guns. Two of the guns had vortex Vipers and one had a Swaro. We could see good enough at first light to shoot the gun with the Swaro but had to wait quite a few minutes to look through the Vortex Viper scopes. Had a buddy wound an animal a few years ago. Animal got out to 964 yards and was looking to go over the hill. He asked me to shoot the animal if I could. The gun was pointed at the sun and I could only use 6X. Two shots in a row hit the animal and it rolled down the hill. Didn't need magnification to get the job done. Was shooting a vortex at the time and really wished I had more clarity instead of magnification.

This is where I am. I believe the Swarovski Z5 3.5-18X44 to be the best all around scope you can get. The difference at the lower end of power from even 2-3.5, isn’t nearly as critical as the extra power on the top end that gets you 18X.

It is a reasonably light scope as well, the optics are superb. I have a few and use the variable aspects of a scope with no problems that others seem to find troublesome...

9B25526C-6326-4525-836D-7689482C58CE.jpeg
 
My max magnification on any of my scopes is 14x I believe and I normally can see my freaking pulse through the crosshairs if I've been drinking lots of coffee or just walked up from a target...

I always keep it max 9-10x.
 
I also have the Swarovski Z5 3.5-18x44 scope. The glass is outstanding. Elevation turret is limited to one revolution, which equates to 13.25 MOA. To do over again I would purchase the X5 5-25-50
 
I also have the Swarovski Z5 3.5-18x44 scope. The glass is outstanding. Elevation turret is limited to one revolution, which equates to 13.25 MOA. To do over again I would purchase the X5 5-25-50
Unless there is something going on with your base/rings, i've never seen a scope limited to 1 revolution on elevation.
Before just buying a higher power scope, i'd investigate your setup first.
According to Swarovski there is 58 MOA total elevation adjustment.

ImBillT....
Your lucky with the 308 sized bullet holes. The 223 are harder to see at distance! :D

For those not shooting these types of matches, the dot in the center is the "X ring". Depending upon type of match IBS, UBR and who is holding the match it counts as either an "X" or 11. Smallest circle is obviously the 10 ring.
2 targets in the center are for sighters.
 

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Unless there is something going on with your base/rings, i've never seen a scope limited to 1 revolution on elevation.
Before just buying a higher power scope, i'd investigate your setup first.

ImBillT....
Your lucky with the 308 sized bullet holes. The 223 are harder to see at distance! :D

For those not shooting these types of matches, the dot in the center is the "X ring". Depending upon type of match IBS, UBR and who is holding the match it counts as either an "X" or 11. Smallest circle is obviously the 10 ring.
2 targets in the center are for sighters.
I should have said My Z5 has a total 58 moa of elevation adjustment but only 13.25 from the zero-stop incorporated in the ballistic turret
 

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