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Quick Detach rings seem to work.

OntarioHunter

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Spent my last time at the range before Africa getting the iron sights on my Springfield zeroed and making sure the Warne QD rings will hold zero. I sighted the iron in for 100 yards which is quite a stretch for this old man's eyeballs. The rear sight I mounted on my war horse are off a 1990s Model 70. Nice that they are adjustable all ways but the adjustments are tricky. Requires a magnifying lens and careful touch with tiny screwdriver. It required more ammo than expected. Also, I had to replace Dad's old Eastman dies when they broke (never much good when new). So new RCBS dies are slightly different and I expected the group with scope might move from last time at the rsnge. It did - up and to the left at 200 meters. I adjusted right two clicks and down one. Next shot was almost on the bull. Removed the scope and reattached it. One more shot right above it. Rings held zero.
20220812_134557.jpg
I walked downrange to target after every shot so my rifle could cool completely. With only six live rounds left I called it good and cleaned off targets. Back at the gun I was just starting to pack up but figured what the hell, I'm here may as well take another shot just to be sure. Not wanting to waste a target, I pasted over holes in an old one and hung it up again at 200 meters. That last shot was right in there sub MOA with previous two - approx 1" @ 220 yards. Good to go!
20220812_140345.jpg
The iron sights group at 100 meters wasn't great, maybe 2" but my eyesight is not great at all. Nevertheless, I'm now confident I could kill a deer or elk at that range or closer with iron sights if necessary.
 
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The only ones I’ve tried are Leupold QR. I like them. The only problem is that after using them too many times they get loose and need to be replaced. I still like them.

The Weaver style QR’s probably wouldn’t get loose. I don’t know if they hold zero better, worse, or equally.
 
The only ones I’ve tried are Leupold QR. I like them. The only problem is that after using them too many times they get loose and need to be replaced. I still like them.

The Weaver style QR’s probably wouldn’t get loose. I don’t know if they hold zero better, worse, or equally.
Are those Leupold QR or QD? The difference is one has posts on the rings and the base has a locking cam style lever...which I prefer.
 
The only ones I’ve tried are Leupold QR. I like them. The only problem is that after using them too many times they get loose and need to be replaced. I still like them.

The Weaver style QR’s probably wouldn’t get loose. I don’t know if they hold zero better, worse, or equally.
Weaver QD rings have a VERY bad reputation on the net. Universally bad. Burris, Leopold, and Talley also make QD rings. As I understand it the QR setups are an integral rings and base unit whereas QD rings are only rings and made for conventional Weaver bases or rails (same set of rings will work for both). Leopold QR ring-and-base setup are/were tops but they only made them for select rifles. My WWII Springfield is not one of them. I seem to recall Redfield made a locking QR setup that was similar to Leopold. And then there's the old Bausch & Lomb spring loaded QR which is downright bizarre. I have that setup on my dad's 1952 Remington 760 pump 06. I have also heard that the cam lock on Leopold QR wears out and they lose zero. These Warne rings are simple and sturdy. I don't see them wearing out very easily. However, I don't expect Weaver aluminum bases or a typical aluminum rail would hold up very well if scope was detached and reattached often. It's why Warne only guarantees return to zero on THEIR bases (which I'm sure are steel). Fortunately, I was able to find an aftermarket steel rail that fit my Springfield.

The downside to QD is shooter has to look over the bases/rail which requires high mounted iron sights. QR base is typically quite flat so they usually work with factory installed iron sights. I bought the highest front sight ramp Williams sells and one of their highest front blades. You'll note that I mounted the rear sight almost under the front bell of the scope to raise it enough to match front sight (I could have mounted it under the scope bell if necessary because the leaf folds down). I can see over the rail with a fairly tight cheek weld. 20220711_202302.jpg20220711_203146.jpg
 
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when l was shooting a lot of 4-h competitions l had detachable mounts on my rifle so that l could strip the scope off and use the iron sights in a different division. l never had any issues with my scope moving zero.
 
when l was shooting a lot of 4-h competitions l had detachable mounts on my rifle so that l could strip the scope off and use the iron sights in a different division. l never had any issues with my scope moving zero.
What setup? Leopold? QD or QR style?
 
l think they were weaver qd but don't quote me, l havn't used them in a long time, anymore my scope stays on my rifle.
 
l think they were weaver qd but don't quote me, l havn't used them in a long time, anymore my scope stays on my rifle.
Did the rings have levers on them or simply Weaver's so-called "detachable" rings with big locking screws on the side that have slots big enough to take a quarter?
 
The difference between QD and standard rings can be rather insignificant. The big difference is the locking levers on QD vs screws on standard rings that require a screwdriver to tighten/loosen (Weaver knurled the edges of the slotted screws on their standard "detachable" rings but anyone who operated them only finger tight was asking for trouble - a lot of it). What the QD rings attach to is the most important component. I don't think the most expensive QD rings (Talley) would be very reliable stuck on cheap aluminum bases. For starters you've got two different metals mated together that have two radically different expansion and contraction characteristics. And aluminum is too soft. It can change shape when it's being compressed over and over.

Also, a rail is much preferred for QD rings. Rail all but eliminates the need to lap the rings. Because the rail is a straight piece of milled steel, the rings should be essentially in line with each other (depending on the uniformity and quality of rings). Standard two piece bases tapped and mounted on the receiver are more often than not poorly lined up for various reasons. This can result in rings that are canted against the scope = poorly mounted. Lapping rings for two piece bases may not be necessary but also not a bad idea.
 
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Are those Leupold QR or QD? The difference is one has posts on the rings and the base has a locking cam style lever...which I prefer.
I believe the two kinds are sold as QR and Weaver QR. Maybe I’m wrong. I can’t say that I’ve searched for either of them in years. The QR rings I’m referring to that I have used are the ones with the center post and cam. The “weaver style” that I’m referring to is almost Leupold with the threaded lever instead of a nut. Other companies make rings that are basically the same. I don’t consider the knurled nut to be quick realease/quick detach.

I shot a rifle in HBR and BR and used Leupold QRs to swap from from a T-6 to a T-36, and also used them on a varmint rifle that wore a Doctor 6x42 when coyote hunting and Tasco 24X target scope when prairie dog shooting. Both rifles shot very small groups and held zero reasonably well when changing scopes. I won a few matches with the BR rig with those QR rings, so they can’t be that bad. Yes, they will absolutely wear out and need to be replaced.
 
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I believe the two kinds are sold as QR and Weaver QR. Maybe I’m wrong. I can’t say that I’ve searched for either of them in years. The QR rings I’m referring to that I have used are the ones with the center post and cam. The “weaver style” that I’m referring to is almost Leupold with the threaded lever instead of a nut. Other companies make rings that are basically the same. I don’t consider the knurled nut to be quick realease/quick detach.

I shot a rifle in HBR and BR and used Leupold QRs to swap from from a T-6 to a T-36, and also used them on a varmint rifle that wore a Doctor 6x42 when coyote hunting and Tasco 24X target scope when prairie dog shooting. Both rifles shot very small groups and held zero reasonably well when changing scopes. I won a few matches with the BR rig with those QR rings, so they can’t be that bad. Yes, they will absolutely wear out and need to be replaced.
Right. QR are ring and base units. QD are rings with lever to tighten them onto conventional bases or rail. Looking at both I can see no reason why if properly set up (e.g. QD on a steel rail) one would be any more likely to retain zero over the other. QD are probably a little less quick to detach and reattach and definitely more susceptible for scope to be dropped in the process.
 
Ya know, reading about the good bad and ugly in parts over the years and thinking about weaver rings right now I'd advise that to get better results from people with their products, simply rise the price. have used Weaver rings for years and have no complaints at all. Next thing I'll probably hear about rings is you have to spend more on the rings than the scope or the rings are no good! At some point to get a barely adequate hunting rifle your gonna have to spend $2800 dollars on the rifle, $4500 on the scope aand $5700 on the rings! Nice new perfect hunting rifle for only $13,000!
 
I believe the two kinds are sold as QR and Weaver QR. Maybe I’m wrong. I can’t say that I’ve searched for either of them in years. The QR rings I’m referring to that I have used are the ones with the center post and cam. The “weaver style” that I’m referring to is almost Leupold with the threaded lever instead of a nut. Other companies make rings that are basically the same. I don’t consider the knurled nut to be quick realease/quick detach.

I shot a rifle in HBR and BR and used Leupold QRs to swap from from a T-6 to a T-36, and also used them on a varmint rifle that wore a Doctor 6x42 when coyote hunting and Tasco 24X target scope when prairie dog shooting. Both rifles shot very small groups and held zero reasonably well when changing scopes. I won a few matches with the BR rig with those QR rings, so they can’t be that bad. Yes, they will absolutely wear out and need to be replaced.
OK I will keep that in mind because I use them on several guns. Only issue I have had with them is one of the locking levers broke off but Leupold sent me a new set quickly. I have always had the rifle return to 0 every time scope was removed.
I use Warne on some other rifles and they do the same thing but with a Weaver style mount.
 
OK I will keep that in mind because I use them on several guns. Only issue I have had with them is one of the locking levers broke off but Leupold sent me a new set quickly. I have always had the rifle return to 0 every time scope was removed.
I use Warne on some other rifles and they do the same thing but with a Weaver style mount.
The levers are the Achilles heel for both QR and QD. They can get broken easily. I mounted my QD rings so the levers are on the right side where both the bolt and scope's elevation turret provide some protection. I also adjusted the levers so that when fully tightened they point up and in towards the turret. Less likely to get snagged on clothing, brush, etc. See above photo.
 
Spent my last time at the range before Africa getting the iron sights on my Springfield zeroed and making sure the Warne QD rings will hold zero. I sighted the iron in for 100 yards which is quite a stretch for this old man's eyeballs. The rear sight I mounted on my war horse are off a 1990s Model 70. Nice that they are adjustable all ways but the adjustments are tricky. Requires a magnifying lens and careful touch with tiny screwdriver. It required more ammo than expected. Also, I had to replace Dad's old Eastman dies when they broke (never much good when new). So new RCBS dies are slightly different and I expected the group with scope might move from last time at the rsnge. It did - up and to the left at 200 meters. I adjusted right two clicks and down one. Next shot was almost on the bull. Removed the scope and reattached it. One more shot right above it. Rings held zero.
View attachment 233802
I walked downrange to target after every shot so my rifle could cool completely. With only six live rounds left I called it good and cleaned off targets. Back at the gun I was just starting to pack up but figured what the hell, I'm here may as well take another shot just to be sure. Not wanting to waste a target, I pasted over holes in an old one and hung it up again at 200 meters. That last shot was right in there sub MOA with previous two - approx 1" @ 220 yards. Good to go!
View attachment 233803
The iron sights group at 100 meters wasn't great, maybe 2" but my eyesight is not great at all. Nevertheless, I'm now confident I could kill a deer or elk at that range or closer with iron sights if necessary.
Not trying to be mean but it looks like you need some more range time. Your grouping rally need some work! Take the time at the range to help build confidence in you abilities
 
I'm seve
Not trying to be mean but it looks like you need some more range time. Your grouping rally need some work! Take the time at the range to help build confidence in you abilities
I'm seventy with a history of multiple retina detachments. Read the writeup with the images. A bit more to the story than just one grouping on each target. Some adjustments were made.

1" group at 100 yards is fine for the kind of hunting I do. My 30-06 is not a cross country ballistic missile launcher. I dropped this buck today st 70 yards in a stiff 26 mph wind shooting offhand. He fell in his tracks. Yesterday I shot the coyote at 100 yards offhand in a wicked wind. I think I have spent enough time at the range.20221031_131148.jpg20221030_103745.jpg
 
Not trying to be mean but it looks like you need some more range time. Your grouping rally need some work! Take the time at the range to help build confidence in you abilities
I hope my 200 yard groups are as good as his when I'm 70 years old.

Not trying to be mean, but you "RALLY" shouldn't be so critical of someone's shooting abilities from behind your keyboard when 1st grade spelling seems to give you difficulty. Take the time with hooked on phonics to help build your confidence in "YOU" abilities.
 
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