Advice on reloads and or factory ammo for my soon to be new rifle the NEW Savage Model 110 Long Range Hunter in .300 WSM?

WVgoodguy22

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I made a thread about a scope for this new rifle and I appreciate the advice I got there. So I am going to ask the other big question about my new rifle that I currently have on layaway, but want to get ahead of the game for when I do receive it in a month in a half. That would be what medicine should I feed this beast? I know there is a .300 WSM "Pet Loads" thread on here, but that is for a much different rifle in brand/model (Tikka T3x vs Savage Model 110 Long Range Hunter), and Barrel length (22 vs 26 inches), Barrel Profile (sporter vs heavy sporter) and weight (6.5 vs 8.4 lbs, this factory doesn't matter much in figuring out loads, but still). I will take those reloading formulas into account as well, but I wanted to see if anyone out there with more experience with Magnum caliber rifles and rifles with longer barrels and maybe even someone who owns a Savage Model 110 Long Range Hunter old or the new one thought about reloads vs factory and what has worked best for them.
I have reloaded before, and my old late 90s Savage Model 110 Hunter in .270 Win has been shooting reloads that my Uncle came up with for me a long time ago and I use that today (130 grain Nos BT and 53 grains of IMR4350) and I came up with a hunting load for my brother's AR-15 that he FINALLY took back (65 gr. Sierra GMKs 25 grain of CFE223), but I haven't done any Magnum calibers myself and the .300 WSM is a short FAT case. We currently only have IMR 4350 (works in my Dad's .243 and .300 Win Mag, mine and my youngest bro's .270 Win) and a little bit of RL-22 (my youngest bro tried it for his 7mm Rem Mag), but nothing else. First off I want to say that I am trying to make this my main option for Big Game Western (Mostly elk, mule deer, black bear, even whitetail deer) hunting and at some of the longer yet reasonable hunting ranges that can be common there vs. the under 100 yard shot that I am use to here in West Virginia. I am open to try 150-200 grain bullets whether mono copper ones like Barnes TTSX, Hornady GMX, or Nosler E-Tips in 150-165 grains or the copper jacketed lead ones like Nosler Accubond, Partition, Berger Classic Hunter (was told the 185 grain would be perfect in my .300 WSM), Hornady ELD-X (haven't seen a factory load for the 178 grain ones, nor reloading data). My rifle barrel is a 1:10 Twist Rate for anyone wanting to know.
Starting out should I just buy a 2-4 different factory loads and see what she likes before I dive down the reloading rabbit hole and possibly get frustrated like my brother was with his 7mm Rem Mag. But if I do get into reloading for it what powder, primer, and bullet combos should I try for it without going crazy and spending too much $$$? I have been told that Hodgdon Varget and H4350 would be a good place to start since it isn't extreme temperature sensitive. But what to you all think? Thanks for any advice in advance.
 

WVgoodguy22

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Sorry for the ridiculously long set up for the question or questions. I tend to over explain everything instead of just getting to the point. :/
 

JCWINZ

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I have the older model LRH in 300 WM. I shot factory loads for break-in and to acquire brass, because at that time it was hard to find, but since then it has only been handloads. It is an accurate gun and seems to gobble up anything I throw at it and put them under 1 moa. I guess it really depends on what bullet you want to shoot then go from there. Most of the bullets you listed are not bad choices, I'm partial to Accubonds so that's where I would start. Someone with more experience reloading the WSM will have to give suggestions for powder.
 

Don Fischer

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The ammo you feed a Savage won't be that much different than what you feed the Tikka assuming they are both the same cartridge. There's this thing called lawyer's that get involved if they think they can make a dime on something a gun company screwed up. Gun company's pretty much lawyer proof themselves, and still get stung now and them by some idiot! The tolerances in the Tikka and the Savage for the any one cartridge will be the same. Why do you think you can go to the store and buy any old 30-06 ammo and shoot it out of any old 30-06 without blowing it up! That one rifle might be more accurate than the other certainly could be true but I'd bet either right out of the box is more than accurate enough for farther than we should shoot! If you reload you just might find you get a better load for one than the other. But if you really believe a half inch either way from one inch is going to matter in a hunting rifle, your mistaken. You should really choose the rifle on just what you feel about the rifle itself. I refuse to buy what I would consider an ugly rifle. Why? Easy as good as rifle's are today your don't have to shoot an ugly rifle. And you can get one, ugly or pretty, in about any cartridge you want!
 

WVgoodguy22

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I have the older model LRH in 300 WM. I shot factory loads for break-in and to acquire brass, because at that time it was hard to find, but since then it has only been handloads. It is an accurate gun and seems to gobble up anything I throw at it and put them under 1 moa. I guess it really depends on what bullet you want to shoot then go from there. Most of the bullets you listed are not bad choices, I'm partial to Accubonds so that's where I would start. Someone with more experience reloading the WSM will have to give suggestions for powder.
That is what I was thinking. A box of 50 in Hornady unfired brass is $60, Nosler is $85 for 25, but found on sale for $70. I am sure there are other unfired brass options, but those are what I found at the local Cabela's. I probably will go the factory route and see what comes of it before spending the money on dies, different powders and bullets. I most likely would try those ABs as one of my first ones. Thanks for the advice.
 

WVgoodguy22

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The ammo you feed a Savage won't be that much different than what you feed the Tikka assuming they are both the same cartridge. There's this thing called lawyer's that get involved if they think they can make a dime on something a gun company screwed up. Gun company's pretty much lawyer proof themselves, and still get stung now and them by some idiot! The tolerances in the Tikka and the Savage for the any one cartridge will be the same. Why do you think you can go to the store and buy any old 30-06 ammo and shoot it out of any old 30-06 without blowing it up! That one rifle might be more accurate than the other certainly could be true but I'd bet either right out of the box is more than accurate enough for farther than we should shoot! If you reload you just might find you get a better load for one than the other. But if you really believe a half inch either way from one inch is going to matter in a hunting rifle, your mistaken. You should really choose the rifle on just what you feel about the rifle itself. I refuse to buy what I would consider an ugly rifle. Why? Easy as good as rifle's are today your don't have to shoot an ugly rifle. And you can get one, ugly or pretty, in about any cartridge you want!
It is the same cartridge and that is a good point. I tend to overthink and explain things. Some people say that certain calibers/cartridges are better or more efficient out of a certain length barrel is the reason why I added that in my question. The Tikka was also my number 1 option, but I saved $300 off of the original price on the Savage M110 LRH so I went that route. I agree wood stocks are prettier and there are some options to be had from inexpensive to a couple grand or so, even in the .300 WSM.
 

VikingsGuy

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My post in the referenced thread with 300wsm round was gun agnostic. I don't factor barrel length into bullet or powder selection for a hunting round and with barrel lengths in the standard range (20"-26"). Sure, the optimal powder load and seating depth do change gun to gun, but that is just as much gun to gun chamber cutting variations as variance in barrel length. Work your way up to your guns optimal load per the techniques explained in the loading manual and you will be fine. I really like the 150TTSX out of my 300WSM. Also, FWIW, the barrel length of a T3X in WSM is 24".
 

antelopedundee

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That is what I was thinking. A box of 50 in Hornady unfired brass is $60, Nosler is $85 for 25, but found on sale for $70. I am sure there are other unfired brass options, but those are what I found at the local Cabela's. I probably will go the factory route and see what comes of it before spending the money on dies, different powders and bullets. I most likely would try those ABs as one of my first ones. Thanks for the advice.

Here are some options. The 200 rounds of Browning for $299 shipped doesn't seem too bad.


https://www.cheaperthandirt.com/ammunition/rifle-ammo/.300-winchester-short-magnum/

Even better deals here.

https://ammoseek.com/ammo/300wsm
 

WVgoodguy22

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My post in the referenced thread with 300wsm round was gun agnostic. I don't factor barrel length into bullet or powder selection for a hunting round and with barrel lengths in the standard range (20"-26"). Sure, the optimal powder load and seating depth do change gun to gun, but that is just as much gun to gun chamber cutting variations as variance in barrel length. Work your way up to your guns optimal load per the techniques explained in the loading manual and you will be fine. I really like the 150TTSX out of my 300WSM. Also, FWIW, the barrel length of a T3X in WSM is 24".
Okay I see, I tend to overthink or analyze things. I believe I was confused with the information that people try to explain the efficiency of a short action cartridge vs. a long action, like the debate between the 30-06 and its son the .308 Win. Saying that it can be more efficient out of a shorter barreled lighter rifle in the 20-22 range vs the long action in the 30-06, etc... That does make sense about the variations from gun to gun, I have seen even in the same model that they shoot certain bullets better or worse than the other. I definitely will do that, finding the optimal load is part of the fun of reloading. I seen that big 650 lb Kudu that you dropped with those 150s TTSX (my bro's early 2000s Savage Model 110 in 7mm Rem Mag wasn't consistent with them and RL-22), I will probably try a factory load with those first whether Barnes or Federal and see if my rifle likes them.
Oops my bad on the barrel length on with the Tikka T3x, I should have known it was 24 since that is the rifle and caliber that I have been wanting for at least 6 years. Must have gotten it confused with one of the many .308 rifles that I was looking at as well as I was debating between the two as the caliber for my next gun. Thanks for the help, I will read more on the other thread to get more of an idea, write it down even.
 

WVgoodguy22

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Caseknife

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RL-19 works good in my Kimber 8400 Montana with Barnes 130-180 TTSX. Don't over think it. Just start now and get a few different boxes of factory ammo and when you get your rifle and break it in with cheap factory ammo, see what it likes in the premium lines. If it likes one particular premium load, stick with it. Any of the premium modern bullets will work, just depends on what your rifle likes.
 

WVgoodguy22

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RL-19 works good in my Kimber 8400 Montana with Barnes 130-180 TTSX. Don't over think it. Just start now and get a few different boxes of factory ammo and when you get your rifle and break it in with cheap factory ammo, see what it likes in the premium lines. If it likes one particular premium load, stick with it. Any of the premium modern bullets will work, just depends on what your rifle likes.
Thanks good to know about RL-19 and that is another vote for the Barnes TTSXs. I will try not to overthink it and like you said grab a few boxes of cheaper ammo and work my way up to the premium ones. Heck my brother's 7mm Rem Mag shot the cheap and heavy Winchester Super X 175 grains soft points the best, after trying to do reloads. One never knows until the try and experiment.
 

Don Fischer

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I have this opinion about brass some might disagree with loudly. I think if you got brass from all the major maker's in the same cartridge but no head stamp's at all on any of it, people would have a very hard time telling one brand from another! Then again I prefer inexpensive in about everything!
 

std7mag

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I'm with Don on this one!
Don't get too hung up on barrel length/profile for reloading.
Your 4350 may work just fine for the 300WSM. Or, if you add another powder to your inventory, is it really going to hurt anything?

The only bullet all of my Savages don't like is the Accubond. And i went through several boxes of different weights trying. Many different seating depths/ powder charges/primers. I really wanted them to work.
Finally gave up and went with the tried & true Ballistic Tips.
Note, i had no issues with the ABLR. And they shoot excepional at long range 600+ yards.

If factory ammo is shooting better than your reloads, in 7mm Rem Mag, your doing something wrong!
 
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theddguide

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Any of the 4350s or RL 17, 19. I use h4350 myself and get good results when I do my part. For a hunting rifle, I say pick a powder and primer and stick with it. Try a couple different bullets and see which shoots best. If nothing satisfies you then change it up.
 

WVgoodguy22

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I'm with Don on this one!
Don't get too hung up on barrel length/profile for reloading.
Your 4350 may work just fine for the 300WSM. Or, if you add another powder to your inventory, is it really going to hurt anything?

The only bullet all of my Savages don't like is the Accubond. And i went through several boxes of different weights trying. Many different seating depths/ powder charges/primers. I really wanted them to work.
Finally gave up and went with the tried & true Ballistic Tips.
Note, i had no issues with the ABLR. And they shoot excepional at long range 600+ yards.

If factory ammo is shooting better than your reloads, in 7mm Rem Mag, your doing something wrong!
I agree, I was thinking of something else when I mentioned that as I may have stated in a reply to someone else. Some people say the short action cartridges burn more efficiently than long action cartridges and can be more efficient in a shorter barreled rifle, hence a lighter one. Like the .308 vs .30-06 arguement, which is a rabbit hole I don't want to go down. Thanks I will try that powder first, see where it goes from there with a couple different recommended bullets. Hmmm interesting about the ABs, that is something that I was looking for when asking for was people who have some modern Savages and what has and hasn't worked for them. I was looking at those in 168s and 180s, but maybe not then if you have had that kind of trouble with all your Savages.
My brother who has an early 2000s Savage Model 110 in 7mm Rem Mag, that he recently got a muzzle brake, pillar and glass bedded and a 1" Limbsaver pad put on (now it recoils like a .243, but is much louder, lol) has been having trouble with his reloads being as consistent under an 1" MOA with a variety of bullets and weights for some reason. Thanks again.
 

WVgoodguy22

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Any of the 4350s or RL 17, 19. I use h4350 myself and get good results when I do my part. For a hunting rifle, I say pick a powder and primer and stick with it. Try a couple different bullets and see which shoots best. If nothing satisfies you then change it up.
When I start reloading I will try the IMR 4350 that we have first then might go with the Hodgsdon version next. Yeah I don't have a range nor am in competitions to worry to much and go down a big expensive rabbit more than I already am, especially since I NEED a quality scope for it as well. Thanks for the advice. :)
 
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