This is the way. Direct bolt on to the built in rail with a recoil pin and super strong. I have tried pic rails before and I’m not a fan. The direct mount is stronger and lower for a better cheek weld.
This thread is more refreshing than a frosty tailgate beer on a hot day of ranch work compared to arguing about politics. I love it. We need a good old fashioned elk cartridge debate too.
I just sent in my money to Wyoming, throwing in for the tag instead of just buying points for the first...
Unfortunately the standard RCBS seat and crimp all in one is really prone to doing this. I should get a Lee factory crimp die, but I’m cheap so I just seat and crimp in two separate steps with the RCBS die.
Get some 240 grain cast SWCs and Unique and you’ll have some seriously fun big bore...
I like keeping the propane to a minimum. I used to stay in a little cabin on occasion with propane everything, including heat. It got a little spooky running a propane heater all the time when it was cold. I would have felt a lot better with a wood stove.
I’m no camper pro, but I believe my dad’s Dutchman camper that I borrow on occasion is a 24’, also 2 axle with no slide outs. It’s not bad, like most campers it’s built a little on the flimsy side to keep weight down. I think that one is a little over 5,000 fully loaded. That’s about the max...
I agree, and I’d happily shoot some core lokts. The Accubonds are a very good balance of wound channel, penetration, and being reasonable on meat loss though.
If the goal is killing elk instead of ballistic mental masturbation, the 7mm 160 accubond is a killer… So are the .277 140s, .308 165s and 180s, and a bunch of others.