Savage 99 restoration FINISHED

tarheel

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Could a do it yourselfer pull off an acceptable blueing job with with Rust Blue? mtmuley
I'm a do it yourselfer and have done several blueing jobs to my satisfaction using this product. It's not too difficult and is fairly inexpensive. The Rust Blue can be purchased in several formulas; Swiss, German, American, British, French, Swedish and Damascus from a gentleman in Florence, SC, comes with a "how to" set of printed instructions and MSDS info.

Not sure if I've gone overboard on the allowable endorsement info, so if anyone would like contact info just PM me.
 

mtmuley

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montana
I'm a do it yourselfer and have done several blueing jobs to my satisfaction using this product. It's not too difficult and is fairly inexpensive. The Rust Blue can be purchased in several formulas; Swiss, German, American, British, French, Swedish and Damascus from a gentleman in Florence, SC, comes with a "how to" set of printed instructions and MSDS info.

Not sure if I've gone overboard on the allowable endorsement info, so if anyone would like contact info just PM me.
I found the company. I have a Ruger .357 I want to restore the finish on. Anywhere I can see the various finishes, or just go with American? mtmuley
 

p_ham

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I found the company. I have a Ruger .357 I want to restore the finish on. Anywhere I can see the various finishes, or just go with American? mtmuley
I really like the color on the American blend.
Don't remove the old bluing, just degrease it thoroughly. Unless you've got pitting you're trying to deal with all you need is 0000 steel wool. Make sure that gets degreased also.
Shoot me a PM if you want a walkthrough.
 

p_ham

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I'm a do it yourselfer and have done several blueing jobs to my satisfaction using this product. It's not too difficult and is fairly inexpensive. The Rust Blue can be purchased in several formulas; Swiss, German, American, British, French, Swedish and Damascus from a gentleman in Florence, SC, comes with a "how to" set of printed instructions and MSDS info.

Not sure if I've gone overboard on the allowable endorsement info, so if anyone would like contact info just PM me.
The company was mentioned already, no problem there!
 

Caseknife

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NE Washington
p_ham, is the lipstick used as an indicator where the wood is making contact and needs to be trimmed? I wish I had the patience
for quality wood working and metal work like you obviously do. I get to the point where it is functional and that is where it usually stops.
 

p_ham

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p_ham, is the lipstick used as an indicator where the wood is making contact and needs to be trimmed? I wish I had the patience
for quality wood working and metal work like you obviously do. I get to the point where it is functional and that is where it usually stops.
Correct. It shows the contact points. You have to read it and determine what's just touching and what actually needs removed.
I much prefer metalwork, but I can stumble my way through the woodwork.
I hear you on the functional, most of my tools never get finished.
 

tarheel

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Piedmont region of North Carolina
I found the company. I have a Ruger .357 I want to restore the finish on. Anywhere I can see the various finishes, or just go with American? mtmuley
Most of what I've done was with American. One thing to remember is that the metal surface actually rusts so there'll be no polished finishes using this process since it's meant more for older guns when that method was more prevalent. For most gun metals you'll get a good, uniform finish as long as the prep is done as recommended. The only problem I've had getting a good finish was when I did a part for another forum member from California and the part had a high nickel content which didn't do well. Sometimes you'll find high nickel in the actions of older autoloader shotguns such as a Rem Sportsman 58.

You should be able to get some better info from the owner, Bob Veasy, at 843-407-1179; haven't talked to him in a few years so I hope he's still available. Like many of us he was getting a bit long in the tooth when last we communicated.
 

poco

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Nov 25, 2012
Messages
40
Correct. It shows the contact points. You have to read it and determine what's just touching and what actually needs removed.
I much prefer metalwork, but I can stumble my way through the woodwork.
I hear you on the functional, most of my tools never get finished.
Love the 99's. can you say where u ordered the stock from.
 

p_ham

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Fallon, NV
Love the 99's. can you say where u ordered the stock from.
Rear stock was from Boyd's, front was from Gunstocks Inc. I would've gotten both from Boyd's but the barrel channel was wrong on theirs.
The front stock was pretty rough.
 

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