Ollin Magnetic Digiscoping System

gun or scope

archerfish

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I have a newer to me, Marlin 270 with a Leupold scope. have taken it out a couple times over the last couple years and cannot get it to shoot straight. the first shot is true, off a sled at 100 or prone at 300, but the following shots all have big time drop and variance. what would you think I am looking at as a primary cause? I have made scope adjustments at the range by a few clicks at a time, but the shots do not improve and i click back to my original setting. The next time out, again, true first round but off following, most hitting the dirt low. this was going to be my kids setup, but my son shot my 7mm and he would not let go. So it this setup goes away i wont be sad. Need new gun, scope, or smith? Thanks for you input, appreciate it.
 
Move the scope setting enough clicks so that the bullet should strike say a foot left. Shoot 3. Move it back so that it should now shoot say 6 inches left. Shoot 3 more. That should tell you if the scope is tracking like it should.

Sometimes after making an adjustment, it's a good idea to whack the scope with your hand to make sure the adjustment takes. Or the recoil from the next shot may do that so after you make an adjustment it's a good idea to take more than one shot.
 
I'd check the crown with a scope and see what there is.

I'd also get on some sandbags and stay at 100 yards.
 
I agree with 406, shoot closer. Check your scope mounts.
 
Sometimes after making an adjustment, it's a good idea to whack the scope with your hand to make sure the adjustment takes. Or the recoil from the next shot may do that so after you make an adjustment it's a good idea to take more than one shot.

Not sure what scopes you are using, but this is unacceptable.

To the OP:
Stay at 100 yards and get off the sled.
Making gross adjustments will let you see if the scope is tracking and not a bad idea.
Loose screw or bad scope is my guess.
 
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Not sure what scopes you are using, but this is unacceptable.

To the OP:
Stay at 100 yards and get off the sled.
Making gross adjustments will let you see if the scope is tracking and not a bad idea.
Loose screw or bad scope is my guess.


The only scopes I've used recently have been Leupolds and I have not nudged them at all. Prior to that there was a Bushnell junker that came with a Remington 783.
You're not supposed to beat the crap out of it, but a nudge wouldn't hurt it. I saw this advised long ago. I don't do it any more. But once you make an adjustment you want to shoot more than once just to make sure the adjustments took. Could be scopes are now better in that respect.
 
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some rifles will be out on the first shot out of a clean barrel,,so now shoot 2 or 3 more with out any adjustment to see if it groups,sometimes up to three inches out on first shot
as said about the sled,,also some plastic stocks twist with extra pressure,,put the rifle over a softer object like a rolled up coat and rest the rifle gently on your palm,,good luck
 
Some good advice. Get off the sled use bags and shoot 3 to 5 shots to see if they're grouping. Also what ammo are you using, rifle may not shoot that ammo well.
 
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I have a newer to me, Marlin 270 with a Leupold scope. have taken it out a couple times over the last couple years and cannot get it to shoot straight. the first shot is true, off a sled at 100 or prone at 300, but the following shots all have big time drop and variance. what would you think I am looking at as a primary cause? I have made scope adjustments at the range by a few clicks at a time, but the shots do not improve and i click back to my original setting. The next time out, again, true first round but off following, most hitting the dirt low. this was going to be my kids setup, but my son shot my 7mm and he would not let go. So it this setup goes away i wont be sad. Need new gun, scope, or smith? Thanks for you input, appreciate it.

Put the scope from the Marlin on the 7mm mag and see if the 7mm shoots as well with it as it does with the scope that's on it now.
 
I agree. Putting scope on 7mm will validate scope. If it’s ok, shoot groups of three with different ammo from 270 with no adjustment or just enough to stay on paper. Use bags not sled as well. Show us what you get or what you expect to achieve.
 
I have had a couple of the Marlin bolt action rifles with synthetic stocks that would have point of impact changes as it was shot. But the movement was only enough at a hundred yards to cause two-three inch groups.
I rebedded one with little success and finally put a new laminated stock on it.
It was a tack driver with the new stock.
I suggest checking the action screws for tightness before going any further. A loose base or ring could be the problem also.
I say shoot off some bags at 50yrds and if you can't keep it where you are aiming at that distance after checking all screws for tightness, then there is certainly a problem.
 
Remember at the 50 the 1/4" clicks will only move the point of impact 1/8".
So to easily see changes made to the scope a large adjustment of 10-12 clicks or more, may help.
 
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The only scopes I've used recently have been Leupolds and I have not nudged them at all. Prior to that there was a Bushnell junker that came with a Remington 783.
You're not supposed to beat the crap out of it, but a nudge wouldn't hurt it. I saw this advised long ago. I don't do it any more. But once you make an adjustment you want to shoot more than once just to make sure the adjustments took. Could be scopes are now better in that respect.

Back in the 60's and 70's we tapped the adjustment cover's after every scope adjustment. Old habit that has held over a lot of years. First thing I do with any new to me rifle is check and correct as needed the bedding of the rifle and free float the barrel full length. If you have a problem in bedding your never gonna do much with accuracy till it's fixed. And I would certainly move into 100 yds and lose the sled!
 
Back in the 60's and 70's we tapped the adjustment cover's after every scope adjustment. Old habit that has held over a lot of years. First thing I do with any new to me rifle is check and correct as needed the bedding of the rifle and free float the barrel full length. If you have a problem in bedding your never gonna do much with accuracy till it's fixed. And I would certainly move into 100 yds and lose the sled!

Did you also lightly tap the end of the screwdriver handle to "set" the screws when mounting the base/s to the action?
 
Did you also lightly tap the end of the screwdriver handle to "set" the screws when mounting the base/s to the action?

No, but as I recall, you can get some screw's started out easier if you tap the on the end of the handle while turning!
 
Thanks for the input, the 300 yd shots were for fun to the steel, used for the 7. i know the real dialing in is at 50-100 yd. I do give a love tap after adjustments to the scope. I Will check my mounts and adjust my scope back and forth to see if is tracking. Now I am fairly green, so I need to read up on "crown" and "bedding of the barrel", new terms for me. I am very hesitant to remove my Burris off the 7mm and swap for a trial. this is my first setup, that rarely needs any adjustment between seasons and years. I don't want to mess with 'ol trusty. very confident with it, should i not be worried about that? thanks again
 
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No, but as I recall, you can get some screw's started out easier if you tap the on the end of the handle while turning!

That's what I was referring to; tapping the end of the screwdriver handle while turning it. You stated it better than I did. For the Leupold screws with the blue stuff on them, it's not necessary.
 
Thanks for the input, the 300 yd shots were for fun to the steel, used for the 7. i know the real dialing in is at 50-100 yd. I do give a love tap after adjustments to the scope. I Will check my mounts and adjust my scope back and forth to see if is tracking. Now I am fairly green, so I need to read up on "crown" and "bedding of the barrel", new terms for me. I am very hesitant to remove my Burris off the 7mm and swap for a trial. this is my first setup, that rarely needs any adjustment between seasons and years. I don't want to mess with 'ol trusty. very confident with it, should i not be worried about that? thanks again

Crown is the configuration at the end of the muzzle. Bedding is usually done to the action only, but there are some who bed the full length of the fore end too. Generally you want the barrel free floating [not touching the stock] all the way back to the recoil lug. The recoil lug should be flush with the stock.

Many factory rifles can benefit from truing up the action, lapping the lugs for full contact, re-crowning the muzzle and properly bedding the action.
 
What type of scope mount/rings are you using? I would start by removing the scope, rings and bases and remount it after degreasing the screws and mounting holes. Also I would remove the barreled action from the stock and reassemble tightening the action screws evenly starting with the front action screw.
How does it group at 100? What ammo are you shooting?
 
That's what I was referring to; tapping the end of the screwdriver handle while turning it. You stated it better than I did. For the Leupold screws with the blue stuff on them, it's not necessary.

Ha! In the very early 70's I was in the Service in Germany and before coming home bought a 308 bolt rifle. Put a straight 4x Redfield on it and set the screw's in the base with red loctite! Got transfered to Lakeside, Mont, near Kalispell. Decided to change the base's for what reason I don't know, they were Redfield one piece! Got to meet a very well known gunsmith through that deal, Harvy Beaumiller. He was older then and had two of the laziest Chessy's in the yard I ever saw. Took me in his shop and started working on it and ruined a couple screwdriver's pretty quick. Then he got one and reground it and got the base off. He's the guy that told me about blue loctite! Hell of a nice guy!
 

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